2014 reds from Coyote’s Run Estate Winery: giving paws for thought

[Tasted December 2016/January 2017]

Dave Sheppard, winemaker at Coyote’s Run in the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation of Niagara Peninsula, sent me half a dozen of his recently released 2014 reds to taste. The ‘Red Paw’ and ‘Black Paw’ wines reflect the fact that Coyote’s Run’s estate vineyard encompasses two distinct soil types: one iron-rich red and the other black. The different water and heat retention qualities of each contribute to notably distinct fruit and wines. The vineyards are designated ‘Red Paw’ and ‘Black Paw’, and several Coyote’s Run wines are named for them. ‘Rare Vintage’ wines are labeled only in years that are especially good for specific varieties. 2014 was cooler than usual until August, when temperatures picked up and led to a dry harvest period that produced some really elegant wines.

You can buy these wines directly from coyotesrunwinery.com

Coyote’s  Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2014
4 stars
VQA Four Mile Creek, Ontario 12.5% alc.
This is a very pretty pinot, with well-defined fruit and plenty of complexity in the flavour profile. There’s some silkiness in the texture and the tannins are drying but unobtrusive. Drink now and to the end of the decade to enjoy its freshness. 

Coyote’s  Run ‘Rare Vintage’ Pinot Noir 2014
4.5 stars
VQA Four Mile Creek, Ontario 13.0% alc.
There’s more weight here than in the ‘Red Paw’ pinot, more density in the fruit and more grip from the tannins. Look for well-defined, concentrated, and complex fruit flavours, clean acidity, and firm tannins. The components are very well balanced. You can drink this now or wait a while for the tannins to integrate, then drink to the early 2020s. 

Coyote’s  Run ‘Rare Vintage’ Cabernet Franc 2014
4.5 stars
VQA Four Mile Creek, Ontario 13.0% alc.
This is a lovely cabernet franc, one of the red varieties that consistently do well in Niagara. It’s both delicate and concentrated – essentially quite a powerful wine but light on its paws. It has a perfumed nose, a pretty palate, a juicy texture, and fine tannins with a little grip. Drink it now or hold it another year, then think of a drinking window to the early 2020s. 

Coyote’s Run ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon  2014
4 stars
VQA Four Mile Creek, Ontario 13.0% alc.
Cool-climate cabernet sauvignon has real charm when it’s free of too many herbaceous notes, and this example has found a sweet spot. There’s plenty of the flavours that are often associated with cabernet, and just a hint of herbaceous – enough to expand to the already extensive palate and add interest to the profile. The acid is clean and fresh, the tannins are understated. Everything’s in place for drinking now and in the next three or four years. 

Coyote’s Run ‘Rare Vintage’ Syrah  2014
4.5 stars
VQA Four Mile Creek, Ontario 13.5% alc.
This very attractive syrah starts with quite an aromatic nose and delivers a palate of layered, nuanced flavours. The texture is fresh, clean, and juicy and the tannins are ripe and sweet. This is a stylish wine that shows how well syrah can do in suitable years in Niagara. 

Coyote’s Run ‘Rare Vintage’ Meritage 2014
4.5 stars
VQA Four Mile Creek, Ontario 12.5% alc.
A barrel-selection of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc, this is an impressive blend that delivers across the board. Look for well-structured fruit, nuanced flavours with as much depth as breadth, and very good balance of sweet fruit and clean, fresh acidity. The tannins are drying but not too grippy, and the integration has reached “drink now” point. This will age well, but I would drink it while it retains its primary fruit character – say by 2020 or soon after. I’m happy to see a wine of this style with only 12.5% alcohol.