No. 20: November 19, 2008
The 2009 edition of my 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO is now on sale. This new edition lists about 180 new wines, and is completely updated. It’s available from all good book stores and on-line at Chapters/Indigo and Amazon.ca.I’m writing this issue of Winepointer while traveling and tasting in Italy. For this reason, I’ll include many reviews of new LCBO wines and new wines from Ontario in the next newsletter.
In this issue:
- Wines from Vintages release, November 22, 2008
- Pointing ahead
- New in Vintages Essentials
- Wines that should be in Vintages (a new and occasional feature)
- New in the LCBO
- New wines from Ontario wineries, featuring Cave Spring Cellars
- Louis Sipp Pinot Gris 2005 ($19.95, Vintages release, white wines)
- René Muré Gewürztraminer 2006 ($16.95, Vintages release, white wines)
- Vignerons d’Estézargues La Granacha 2006 ($21.95, Vintages release, red wines)
- Juan Gil Monastrell 2006 ($16.95, Vintages release, red wines)
Vintages release, November 20, 2008
There’s a good selection of well-priced wines from around the world in this release, including some ‘premium reds’ that you’ll find after the main release. The premiums are not inexpensive, but if you can swallow some of the prices, you’ll find the wines go down well, too.The main release
White wine
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Nadja’s Vineyard’ Riesling 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario $19.95 (578625)
This is an elegant, classy riesling that’s characterized by lovely fruit, complemented by a broad seam of crisp acidity. The effect is clean, refreshing, and delicious, and you’ll enjoy it with herbed roast chicken or fruit-stuffed pork tenderloin.
Stratus White 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $44.00 (660704)
This is a stunning white blend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, gewürztraminer, semillon and riesling. It spans a broad flavour spectrum, has both depth and breadth of character, and combines substance and elegance. Yes, it’s $44, but if your wallet runs to that, let it run to get a bottle of this.
Gallo Family ‘Laguna Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2005
Russian River Valley, California $29.95 (544981)
This is a really substantial chardonnay, full and slightly viscous in the mouth and packed with rich, layered and complex fruit. Running through the palate is a seam of soft acidity that counterbalances the rest of the components and makes this eminently suited to rich dishes like lobster or seared scallops.
Rodney Strong ‘Chalk Hill’ Chardonnay 2005
Sonoma County, California $22.95 (275552)
Look for great chardonnays, like this one, from Sonoma County. Rodney Strong is always reliable and here has come through with a fine balance of rich, textured fruit, refreshing acidity, and well-appointed oak. The balance is everything here, and it makes this an excellent choice for poultry and pork.
Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2006
DO Leyda Valley, San Antonio, Chile $20.95 (14068)
This is a consistently excellent sauvignon blanc, and here you get to see the effects of aging; after all, there are already some 2008 Chilean sauvignon blancs on the market (like the one below). Here you get dense, pungent fruit that shows no loss of vibrant freshness, lifted by a complex acid spine. Great stuff, and excellent with grilled white fish, seafood and shellfish.
Viña Maipo Reserva Especial Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Casablanca Valley, Chile $17.95 (81216)
This is a well-made sauvignon blanc where you’ll find a good balance of clean, layered fruit and crisp acidity. It’s very dry and goes well with grilled seafood with a squirt of fresh lemon or lime.
Louis Sipp Pinot Gris 2005
AOC Alsace, France $19.95 (731471)
This is a lovely, beautifully balanced pinot gris, and a great way to remind yourself of an Alsatian style, after so many from Italy and other parts of the world. It’s attractively dry, with concentrated and well-focused fruit. A finely-balanced seam of acidity makes it an excellent choice for stuffed pork tenderloin, as the Vintages catalog suggests.
René Muré Gewürztraminer 2006
AOC Alsace, France $16.95 (61218)
This is a classic style of Alsatian gewürztraminer, with plush, rich and pungent flavours, and a texture that’s balanced, fat, and slightly oily. It’s all there, and at a good price. This is a natural for spicy food such as Thai cuisine.
Red wines
Creekside Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2006
VQA St Davids Bench, Ontario $29.95 (81729)
The 2006 vintage in much of Niagara was very tricky for reds, but some made it through. This one that did so, and it’s reflective of the fact that Creekside has been going from strength to strength. Look for good weight in this pinot, with solid flavours that are complex and nicely defined. They’re balanced by a nice spine of acidity that lifts the flavours and contributes a refreshing texture. Drink it with planked salmon or a mushroom risotto.
Mike Weir Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $22.20 (0075)
From the same winemaking team (Rob Power and Craig MacDonald) that made the Creekside pinot noir (reviewed above), this delivers good, complex flavours and a seam of brisk acidity. The combination is compelling, and this is excellent with turkey and cranberry condiments.
Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley, California $49.95 (708842)
This is a cabernet for medium-term cellaring, although you could drink it now, at a pinch, if you decant it and pair it with rare-to-medium-rare red meat. I would put it away for about five years to let the components knit and the tannins soften. What you’ll get is a plush, dense, richly textured cabernet.
Van Ruiten ‘Old Vine’Zinfandel 2006
Lodi, California $18.95 (58685)
Zin-lovers will love this Zin. It delivers everything you want from the variety: lots of ripe fruit intensity, a smooth, somewhat fat texture, and decent structure. It has good complexity and it’s a natural for well-seasoned red meats.
Joffré E. Hijas Premium Malbec 2004
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina $25.95
Somewhat more expensive than many malbecs that have come through Vintages, this one delivers the rich and layered flavours you expect, along with a lovely, integrated seam of acidity. It’s all about balance, and here it makes the wine an excellent partner for grilled red meats.
Montes Alpha Syrah 2006
DO Colchagua Valley $22.95 (0612)
From the Apalta Vineyard, this engaging Syrah delivers well-defined and nuanced flavours, with a fairly rich and generous texture. The tannins are sleek and ripe, and the wine is stylish through and through. Drink it with roast or grilled lamb.
Blue Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Victoria, Australia $22.95 (79590)
This is a very attractive cabernet, with a polished, stylish texture and a quite elegant fruit profile. The flavours here are nicely defined, well structured and layered, and the tannins are sleek. All in, it’s very well made and delightful to drink. Do so with roast or grilled beef,
Grant Burge ‘The Holy Trinity’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2003
Barossa Valley, Australia $37.95 (26802)
The blend is 39%, 37%, 24%, respectively. This is another of Grant Burge’s fine wines, which are stylish and good value across the board. Here you get a well poised combination of plush, complex and generous fruit lifted by well-proportioned acidity that delivers a refreshing texture. It’s excellent with well-seasoned lamb.
Groom Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, Australia $37.95 (74237)
This is a very attractive shiraz that’s well structured and quite stylish. The fruit has great depth and complexity and it’s complemented by a broad seam of acidity that contributes a slight edgy tanginess to the texture. The tannins are there, but easy-going, and this is a terrific choice for well-seasoned red meats.
Mawson’s Hill ‘Block 3’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Wrattonbully, Australia $19.95 (60228)
Look for a rich and dense cabernet sauvignon here. The flavours are full-on and tightly packed, and the texture is quite powerful. Medium-plus in weight and with smooth, ripe tannins, it’s drinking well now (and for the next three or four years) with any big red meat dish.
Ugaba 2006
WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $26.95 (83204)
This is a big, serious blend of 42% syrah, 32% cabernet sauvignon, and 26% merlot. It’s chock full of well-structured flavours that are complemented by beautifully balanced acidity. The tannins are supple and easily manageable, and this is perfect for well-seasoned red meats.
Château Beauregard 2005
AOC Pomerol, France $67.95 (500876)
This is a medium-bodied, merlot-dominant blend that’s stylish and attractive. The fruit is quite dense and well extracted, and the texture is smooth and fine. With firm, well-structured tannins, it’s drinking now, but will be better if held for two or three years. Then drink it with roast or grilled beef.
Château Côte de Baleau 2005
AOC St-Emilion Grand Cru, France $38.95 (501940)
The tannins have a firm grip on things right now, and I suggest holding this three or four years before drinking it. After that, you’ll appreciate the complex and generous flavours, the balance and a smooth texture. It’ll be excellent with grilled lamb.
Château Marjosse 2005
AOC Bordeaux, France $23.95 (50677)
This is a quite lovely and stylish Bordeaux, and it has a straightforward simplicity that many people will find attractive. The fruit is generous, the balance very good, and it has a juiciness that makes it ideal for roasted red meats.
Château Patache d’Aux ‘Cuvée Flora’ 2005
AOC Médoc, France $50.95 (998377)
There’s a lot of flavour here, but right now it’s dense and tightly wound, and the ripe tannins are firmly in control. Give this another five years to achieve some balance and harmony, and you’ll have an excellent wine to go with grilled red meats.
Duvergey-Taboureau Nuits-Saint-Georges 2005
AOC Nuits-Saint-Georges, France $41.95 (84442)
From the fabulous 2005 vintage this shows wonderful breadth and depth, with expressive and nuanced fruit and finely balanced acidity. It’s drinking beautifully now and has another ten-fifteen years in it. Drink it with lamb or with mushroom risotto.
Vignerons d’Estézargues La Granacha 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages, France $21.95 (82560)
This is a really lovely blend that’s rich and full of flavour—just the sort of wine for a dinner of grilled red meat. The fruit is full and textured, and there’s an attractive tanginess. It’s very dry and the tannins are ripe and supple.
Terra d’Aligi ‘Tolos’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2005
DOCG Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy $29.95 (19166)
This is Terra d’Aligi’s top-tier Montepulciano (you can try the entry-level, which is great value at $11.95, in the LCBO). For less than $20 more, though, the quality rises substantially, and here you’ll find lovely, structured and complex fruit flavours that contribute to a bold texture and strong finish. It’s graceful and powerful, and a very good match for braised lamb shank.
Poderi Colla ‘Roncaglie’ Barbaresco 2004
DOCG Barbaresco, Italy $52.95 (726133)
This barbaresco delivers very attractive flavours that are concentrated and complex, with a generous and juicy texture. Medium-plus in weight, it’s a good choice for osso buco or for any meat-based pasta, like pici and a sausage and tomato sauce.
Campomaggio Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $21.95 (85027)
As it happens, I’m writing this while I’m in the Chianti Classico DOCG. This example delivers the goods very effectively. It shows full and layered fruit flavours and the acidity that sangiovese contributes. It’s a very good red for grilled steak and vegetables.
La Vite Lucente 2005
IGT Toscana, Italy $39.95 (747030)
There’s great balance of fruit, acidity and tannins here. Look for well-structured and extracted flavours, a broad seam of elevating acidity, and sleek tannins. It’s drinking very well now and will hold another six or eight years.
Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
DOCG Chianti Classico Riserva, Italy $35.95 (512384)
Typical of the very hot 2003 vintage, this is darker and has more fruit intensity than the years on either side. But the acidity is still there in good proportion in the fairly dense texture. It’s drinking well now (with rich meat-based pasta dishes or red meats) and for another eight years or so.
Juan Gil Monastrell 2006
DO Jumilla, Spain $16.95 (13656)
You could drink this now, but it’s tough going and I’d put a few bottles (at this price) away for two or three years. It’s chock full of intense, layered flavour. The texture is big and dense and, when you’re both ready, this is an excellent choice for well-seasoned red meats.
Premium reds
Beringer ‘Howell Mountain, Bancroft Ranch’ Merlot 1996
Napa Valley, California $98.95 (340497)
If you have trouble keeping your hands off wine you’ve cellared, it’s a good idea to look for older bottles that Vintages releases every now and again. You can be sure they’ve been kept in the right conditions, too. This 12-year-old Beringer cabernet is in great shape and tastes good for another few years yet, if not another 12. The fruit is solid and complex, the balance is good, and the tannins drying and integrated. It’s a great choice for roast beef.
Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley, California $73.95 (189795)
A lovely example of Napa cabernet, with everything in place. The fruit is richly textured, extracted and nicely nuanced, and it’s complemented by good acidity and framed by supple tannins. In all, a stylish cabernet you can enjoy with the usual suspects (whether that’s your friends, family, or food).
Wolf Blass ‘Black Label’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2004
South Australia $98.95 (960468)
This is a stunning wine. Not only do you get high-octane fruit intensity of the flavours and immense power in the sheer heft of this terrific blend, but it’s structured and nuanced and has fine balance. Ever see a rugby player training by doing ballet exercises? This is drinking well now, and will continue to do so for another ten years, at least.
Altaïr Red 2004
DO Cachapoal Valley, Chile $64.95 (38430)
Look for serious weight in this red blend. The flavours are intense, layered and well focused, and it’s accompanied by a dense, mouth-filling texture. The structure and balance are excellent, and the tannins are fine and very firm. It needs a good three or four years to come together, and then it’ll be a great wine for a decade or more.
Catena Alta Malbec 2005
Mendoza, Argentina $60.95 (982355)
Lower-priced malbecs are making a name for Argentina in that category, and now the country’s industry has to fight to convince wine-lovers that super-premium malbecs are worth paying substantially more for. See what you think of this one, with its concentrated, layered fruit, very good structure and balance. It has heft, it has style, it has staying-power for another four or five years.
Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2005
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Italy $50.95 (716050)
It could be five stars. I dithered, changed it to five, then back to four-and-a-half, then to five…. The essential point is that this is a stunning wine, where a terrific spectrum of flavours is complemented by refreshing acidity and sleek tannins. Drinking it is a five-star experience.
Pointing ahead
Look for these wines in forthcoming Vintages releasesVintages release, April 2009
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate’ Chardonnay Musqué 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario $15.95
Chardonnay musqué is a particularly aromatic variety of chardonnay, named for its charactristic muskiness. For the last ten years, Cave Spring Cellars has been picking the grapes late, so as to increase the aromatics and flavours, then fermenting the wine dry. What you get from the stellar 2007 vintage is a range of delightful flavours that are somewhat taut, rather than ebullient, a slightly viscous texture, and terrific fruit-acid balance. It’s an excellent choice for slightly spicy Asian dishes.
New in Vintages Essentials
Vintages Essentials are wines carried in Vintages on a continuous basis. Cave Spring Cellars Estate Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.05 (286377)
This delivers a wide spectrum of flavours that are highlighted by crisp acidity. There’s lots of complexity here, and it’s a wine that will age for a few years. Tom Pennachetti suggests decanting it before serving.
Cave Spring Cellars Estate Chardonnay 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (256552)
This chardonnay is made from one block of vines, 28-32 years old, and it’s aged 50% in stainless steel and 50% in French oak (50% new). It shows great texture (most of the oak is there), complex and refined fruit, and very good balance.
Kilikanoon ’Killerman’s Run’ Shiraz 2006
South Australia $19.95 (925453)
This is well structured and full of rich fruit and has a rich texture that’s tangy and refreshing. Dry and medium-plus bodied, it’s a natural for full-flavoured red meats.
Wines that should be in Vintages
Among the several thousands of wines I taste every year, I come across many that are excellent quality and great value that are not available in Ontario. Now, the LCBO/Vintages can’t stock every wine in the world, but in this occasional feature I’ll highlight some that Vintages’ buyers might well consider.I tasted the following wines (among others) during a brief trip to two wineries in Tuscany, Castello di Gabbiano and Il Burro.
Castello di Gabbiano Bellezza 2005
IGT Toscana, Italy
This Super-Tuscan is made from 100% sangiovese, unlike many others that blend cabernet sauvignon, merlot and other non-Italian varieties. Here you get a delicious mouthful of complex, layered, sweet fruit, offset and perfectly balanced by classic sangiovese acidity. It’s an amazingly stylish and well-structured combination, elegantly framed by fine tannins. About 1,000 cases made.
Castello di Gabbiano Alleanza 2005
IGT Toscana, Italy
This is a blend of 75% merlot, 15% sangiovese and 10% cabernet sauvignon. The flavours are richly textured, well delineated and extracted, and show a good range of flavours. A broad seam of acidity runs right through the palate, and lends a refreshing texture that extends to the long finish. This is well made and delicious. About 1,000 cases made.
Il Borro Polissena 2005
IGT Toscana, Italy
I tasted this 100% sangiovese during dinner with sommelier and writer Gioia Giacomelli, who is Il Borro’s PR director. She said it made her think of “a beautiful woman with a wild character.” Now, I’m not a big fan of that sort of descriptor, but there is a certain wildness about sangiovese, and this Polissena shows exhuberant and vibrant flavours, all held together by a refreshing spine of acidity and a frame of firm, sweet tannins. It’s drinking now and will drink well for 10 years or more. About 600 cases made.
Il Borro Polissena 2006
IGT Toscana, Italy
This is a powerful and stylish, 100% sangiovese Super-Tuscan that exhibits flavours that are extracted, plush and well defined. It’s dry, with good tannic structure, and shows terrific fruit-acid balance. It needs a bit of time to unwind, and will be best 2010 through 2020. About 600 cases were made.
Il Borro 2005
IGT Toscana
This is a blend of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Syrah (10%) and Petit Verdot (5%), all from Il Borro’s own vineyards. It’s a gorgeous blend, full of power and elegance, fruit flair and delineated structure. Right now the fruit is still tightly wound and the texture is taut, but given a few years to relax and harmonize, the components will make a stunning combination. Drink it 2010-2020. I also tasted Il Borro 2006, which is bottled, but not yet released. (Il Borro is aged in bottle six months before release.) It’s even bigger than the 2005, with dense, structured fruit and gripping tannins. Drink it 2012-2025.
New in the LCBO
Look for these new wines, or new vintages of existing wines, in the LCBO
Castillo de Monséran Viura 2006
DOC Cariñena, Spain $8.95 (73387)
This Spanish white made from the viura grape variety goes very successfully with roast chicken or pork. It has well-defined and fairly pungent flavours, together with crisp, refreshing texture.
Fat Bastard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Vin de Pays d’Oc, France $14.95 (28506)
Fruity and forward, but with decent structure, this is a generous, medium-bodied, dry, and nicely balanced cabernet. It’s versatile enough to go with red meat dishes of all kinds.
New from Ontario wineries
Cave Spring Cellars
A couple of weeks ago, I sat down with Tom Pennachetti, of Ontario’s Cave Spring Cellars, and tasted through the winery’s 2007 whites and some other recently released wines. The 2007 vintage was excellent in Niagara Peninsula. Tom calls it a “blue sky vintage,” with consistently warm, but not hot, temperatures, clear skies, and little rain. The result was “super-clean fruit,” and it shows in these wines. Two are ‘Vintages Essential’ wines (reviewed above), one (also reviewed above) is scheduled for release next year, and these (below) are available directly from the winery. You can order them from www.cavespring.ca.
Cave Spring Cellars Chenin Blanc 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 Available from the winery
If you’re looking for a wine to drink with shellfish, open a bottle of this. This is a much drier chenin blanc than earlier vintages from Cave Spring. It delivers fairly tight fruit that’s just beginning to open up, with lovely acidity. It’s a great choice for shellfish. Try it with freshly shucked oysters.
Cave Spring Cellars Gewürztraminer 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $15.95 Available from the winery
This is more evidence that Niagara Gewürztraminer has a very bright future. Here you get class varietal flavour and texture: well-focused fruit, some fatness/oiliness in the texture, and great balance. It’s a natural for spicy seafood and chicken dishes.
Cave Spring Cellars ‘CSV’ Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 Available from the winery
From vines more than 30 years old, this riesling delivers big, pungent and complex flavours and some viscosity in the texture. The balance is excellent and you can safely cellar this for ten years.
Cave Spring Cellars ‘CSV’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $39.95 Available from the winery
Everything you look for in an excellent chardonnay is here. There’s tremendous equilibrium of rich, well-delineated fruit and the broad seam of refreshing acidity. The texture is slightly viscous, adding to the mouth-filling sensation that’s moderated by the acidity. It has the heft to go with rich dishes, such as lobster and seared scallops, but also pairs well with more simple chicken and pork dishes.
Cave Spring Cellars Merlot 2006
VQA Niagara Escarpment $16.85 Available from the winery
There’s a core of sweet fruit in this 100% merlot, and the flavours are attractively layered. There’s also an awkward unripe note here, as there is in many 2006 reds from Niagara. The tannins are supple, the mouth-feel is generous and the texture tangy, and it’s a good choice for grilled red meats with a peppery sauce.
Cave Spring Cellars Estate Cabernet Franc 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $24.95 Available from the winery
The grapes for this wine were left longer than usual on the vine and harvested in early November. The more concentrated sugar contributed to the 14% alcohol, and the ripeness shows in the rich and fairly dense flavours. They’re well balanced by the acidity, which produces an attractive juiciness. I’m always on the look-out for a superior cabernet franc, and Cave Springs has produced one here.
Cheers,
Rod.