Reservations about 'Reserve' wines
Thursday, 20 January 2011

Sometimes term denotes quality, but it can be puffery, too

There's a worldwide movement to protect the authenticity of food against fraudulent and misleading packaging.

A recent conference in San Francisco focused on Italian food and ways of protecting it from cheap knock-offs. It's estimated that seven out of 10 foods sold in the United States as authentic Italian are impostors, according to the Italian Farmers Union. Offences range from Italian "look-alike" or "sound-alike" packaging, to misleading product claims and clever substitutions, to outright fraud.

To some extent, wine has been protected for a number of years. Wine on the international market can be labelled "champagne" only if it's made in Champagne, using specific grape varieties and made according to an approved method. The same goes for burgundy, chianti, port, sherry, and so on.

But there are still many terms used on wine labels that are can be misleading, even if they're not strictly fraudulent. Take "Reserve" (or Reserve, Riserva, Reserva) and its various formulations like "Proprietor's Reserve," "Grand Reserve," "Vintner's Reserve," and any others a marketing department can come up with. Throughout most of the world's wine regions, "Reserve" means nothing at all. It generally suggests that a winery thinks it's a cut above its non-Reserve lines -- and Reserve wines generally cost more -- but there's no guarantee of superior quality.

In some parts of the wine world, though, "Reserve" does have a particular meaning. Take Castello Gabbiano Riserva Chianti Classico, reviewed today. Chianti's wine law specifies that a Riserva wine must be aged at least 24 months (including at least three months in a bottle) before it's released for sale. Similar aging rules are in place in countries such as Greece, Portugal and Spain.

Throughout the New World, though, the use of "Reserve" is entirely at the discretion of producers. An exception is Washington state, where most producers have signed on to a practice that restricts the use of "Reserve" to a maximum of 10 per cent of a winery's production.

Does it matter that "Reserve" on a label means something on wine labels from some places and not others? If consumers know that the term can be mere puffery, probably not. If they believe it indicates superior quality that merits a higher price, yes.

But then, it's one of a number of terms that are used on labels that seem to indicate quality. Another is "Old Vines," which is sometime used because older vines tend to produce wines that have more complexity. But what makes a vine "old?" Some old vines (notably, California zinfandels and Australian shirazes) date back more than a century. No argument that they're old. But yet others are relatively young: 15 or 20 years old. Age can be relative to a region or to a vineyard.

It's an ongoing debate whether terms like these should be regulated. What do you think?


Chateau Pey La Tour 2009
A merlot-cabernet sauvignon blend from Bordeaux, this shows complexity and style. Look for well-defined flavours and a substantial and fresh texture. Dry and lightly tannic, it's a natural for roast red meats and poultry. 13.5-per-cent alcohol; $19.95 (925859, Vintages Essential)

Jacob's Creek Shiraz 2008
This offers what you expect from an Australian shiraz at this price: plenty of ripe, sweet fruit and a fairly dense texture. In addition it has good balance and light tannins, and it goes well with grilled red meats, like steak or lamb chops. 14-per-cent alcohol; $11.95 (548644)

Castello Gabbiano Riserva Chianti Classico 2007
The flavours in this well-priced Chianti are nicely concentrated and complex, and they complement the tangy, fresh texture that makes is successful with many meat and vegetarian dishes prepared in tomato-based sauce. 14-per-cent alcohol; $13.95 (78006)

Graffigna 'Centenario' Reserve Pinot Grigio 2009
This Argentine pinot grigio is medium bodied and dry, and full of concentrated, sweet fruit flavours, but retains good balance and freshness in its texture. It's a good choice for chicken and pork dishes. 13.5-percent alcohol; $12.95, but $10.95 to Jan. 30; (164756)
Last Updated ( Thursday, 24 February 2011 )