Are you an ‘Anti-Flavour Wine Elitist?’
Thursday, 04 March 2010

Critic shouldn't throw stones

Are you a member of the Anti-Flavour Wine Elite (AFWE)?

This is a term used recently by Robert Parker, the influential American wine critic. He tweeted that some wine merchants in the U.S. are discounting fairly expensive Australian shirazes because they've fallen out of favour with what he called the Anti-Flavour Wine Elite.

The tweet set the cat among the pigeons because Parker seemed to confirm what so many people say about him: that he tends to give high marks (on his awful 100-point scale) to wines that are full of flavour, rather than those that are more restrained and structured. Parker has such influence in the wine world (a wine with a Parker score of 90 or more sells like a product endorsed by Oprah) that some wine producers have been accused of making wines to his preferred style.

But let's look at this idea of an Anti-Flavour Wine Elite. First, it implies that if you prefer wines that aren't blockbuster, intensely flavoured fruit-bombs, you don't like flavour. That's obviously such nonsense that it's not worth commenting on, and it shows an astonishingly limited perspective for a wine critic who's taken seriously.

Then there's the notion that anyone who doesn't like intense flavour is an elitist. There is a lot of elitism in the wine world, including the world of wine writing. I'm often surprised at the dismissive attitude that some of my colleagues adopt toward ordinary, well-made, inexpensive wines.

But I don't think the critical line is between intense flavour and more subtle flavour. My sense is that what's important is the balance among the various components in the wine, especially between acidity and fruit. As long as there's good balance, there's room for as much or as little intensity in the flavours as the grapes will give and the winemaker wants to extract.

Parker could be right in statistical terms, because wines with intense flavour, but not much else going for them (certainly not balance), tend to be the bestsellers. Think of entry-level Australian shirazes and Argentinean malbecs. More structured and restrained wines are generally less popular. But I don't think that makes their fans an "elite" with all the moral overtones of the term.

If there is such an elite though, it would have to include people who enjoy Ontario wines, as few of those reach the levels of flavour intensity that Parker favours. Occasionally, as in the warm 2007 vintage, you get quite full flavours, but for the most part, Ontario wines tend to be more restrained in their impact and to have good levels of acidity. Those are their strengths, but they're also the reason why many people don't like Ontario wines so much -- because they don't have the concentration and flavour of wines from warm climate regions.

The point is, of course, that there are many different styles and many different style preferences. That's the richness of wine, and to sneer at any one of them is to misunderstand wine completely. Maybe Robert Parker was just trying to attract some attention to himself by dangling "Anti-Flavour Wine Elite" in front of the wine community. If so, he succeeded.


Yvon Mau Colombard-Chardonnay 2008 This is exceptional value from southwest France. It's a lovely white blend that has well-defined flavours and is bursting with vibrancy and freshness. Sip it alone or with spicy seafood or chicken dishes. 11.5-per-cent alcohol; $8.95 (627265)

Château des Charmes Riesling 2008 From one of Niagara's consistently reliable producers, this is a well-priced dry riesling that goes well with roast or grilled pork and with poultry. Look for complex flavours and excellent balance. 12.5-per-cent alcohol; $12.45 (61499)

Strewn 'Rogue's Lot' Cabernet Franc-Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 This is a nicely pitched red blend from the warm Ontario 2007 vintage. Look for solid flavours, good balance and light tannins, and think of this for grilled or roasted red meats. 12.5-per-cent alcohol; $13.95 (65342)

Château des Charmes Cabernet Franc 2007 Cabernet Franc does well in Niagara, and this one shows its stuff effectively. You'll find good complexity in the solid flavours, good balance and nice tannic dryness. Drink it with red meats. 13-per-cent alcohol; $13.95 (277236)