Bordeaux that won't break the bank

Thursday, 12 November 2009

Bordeaux has a special status among the world's wine regions. It was the first major exporting region in the world, and as long ago as the 1200s, it was shipping hundreds of thousands of litres of wine to England. For centuries, the English middle and upper classes were its biggest supporters (they called it "claret"), and the glow of that success was (and is) reflected around the world. Even now, when there's a bigger choice of wines than ever before, Bordeaux wines attract far more attention than you'd expect from such a small region. Each year's growing conditions are carefully scrutinized, changes in the prices of the wines from the most famous châteaux are discussed, and futures are offered worldwide (in Ontario, by Vintages). You'd think that, with all this attention, you'd have to take out a second mortgage to enjoy Bordeaux, and that might be true of the most expensive offerings, like Pétrus and Mouton Rothschild. OK, not really a second mortgage, because recent vintages sell for about $1,000 and $500, respectively. But a second job might help. Wines with prices like these contribute to the impression that Bordeaux wines are beyond the budget of us ordinary folk. But the great bulk of Bordeaux wines are priced very competitively, and it's not difficult to find very good and affordable wines from the region. I was reminded of that a couple of weeks ago, when I went to a tasting of about 40 Bordeaux wines that cost under $30. Most are available in the LCBO or Vintages, and most were good quality and represented good value. What's special about Bordeaux is the blending, because almost all the region's wines — whites and reds, alike — are blends. And they're so successful that they're emulated the world over. Some used to be called "Bordeaux blends," but are now known as "Meritage" because the name Bordeaux is reserved for the region. The ubiquitous cabernet-merlot blend is from Bordeaux. So is the semillon-sauvignon blanc blend that's becoming very popular. Bordeaux isn't the only region to specialize in blends. In France, think of Champagne, and blends are among the best-known wines of other countries, like Chianti in Italy and Rioja in Spain. But Bordeaux is the model that's copied far more than any other, and that alone must say something. But although blending allows winemakers to play to the strengths of each vintage — adding more merlot one year, more cabernet franc another — there is no homogenous Bordeaux style or flavour. Some of the Bordeaux appellations are merlot-dominant, while others blend more cabernet sauvignon. Some are mostly cabernet franc. Some include malbec or petit verdot. Add variations as some producers aim for a house-style, others try for a more classic profile, while yet others opt for more modern, early-drinking wines, and you get a rich diversity of wines. Try a comparative Bordeaux tasting with friends. The four I review here today show the variety of styles and flavours from a region worth delving into, which lets you please your palate without emptying your wallet. Château Pey La Tour 2007 This is a merlot-cabernet sauvignon blend that delivers very attractive aromas and flavours that are solid from start to finish. It has good structure and a clean, balanced texture, and it's a good choice for red meats. 12.5 per cent alcohol; $14.95 (264986) Château Saint-Germain 2007 This is a nicely made Bordeaux that's solid across the board. Dry and medium bodied, with well-extracted flavours, it's balanced, and goes well with grilled or roasted red meats. 12.5 per cent alcohol; $13.95 (152587) Château Canada 2005 From a very good vintage, this is a really attractive red. Look for concentrated and complex flavours, a juicy texture, and well-integrated tannins. It's a natural for grilled or roasted red meats. 13 per cent alcohol; $14.95 (559468) Château des Laurets 2006 This is a delicious red that's predominantly merlot. Look for concentrated flavours, very good balance and a refreshing texture. It's dry with firm tannins, so drink it with red meats cooked medium-rare. 14 per cent alcohol; $19.90 (371401)