No. 26: February 11, 2009
In this issue:- Wines from Vintages release, February 14, 2009
- Pointing ahead
- Stark-Condé Syrah 2005 ($19.95, Vintages release, South Africa feature, red wines)
- Terraza de los Andes Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($18.95, Vintages main release, red wines)
- Viña Requingua ‘Puerto Viejo’ Reserve Merlot 2005 ($12.95, Vintages main release, red wines)
- Water Wheel Memsie 2007 ($13.95, Vintages main release, red wines)
- Château Vessière Costières de Nîmes 2006 ($15.95, Vintages main release, red wines)
- Pierre Laplace Madiran 2005 ($14.95, Vintages main release, red wines)
- Sileni ‘Cellar Selection’ Pinot Noir 2007 ($15.00, Pointing ahead)
- Château Hauchat 2005 ($15.00, Pointing ahead)
Vintages release, February 14, 2009
This release features red wines from South Africa and sparkling wines (many of them pink, for Valentine’s Day) from around the world. The main release comprises the usual diversity of regions, varieties and styles, with something for everyone.South Africa feature
Red wines
The Cloof Cellar Blend 2005
WO Darling $20.95 (37408)
Made from tinta barocca, pinotage, shiraz, and ‘bits and pieces’ (according to the label), this is a fruit-forward blend with solid and nicely complex flavours. Medium-bodied and dry, it’s juicy and has a tangy texture. Drink it with grilled red meats.
Mulderbosch Faithful Hound 2004
WO Stellenbosch $20.95 (922443)
With five of the six approved Bordeaux grapes judiciously blended, this delivers balance and complexity in an attractive new world expression of the Bordeaux style. The fruit is very well balanced with the acidity, and the tannins are well integrated for drinking now and over the next five years.
TMV Viktoria Red 2005
WO Western Cape $19.95 (98095)
A shiraz-based blend, this red is all about rich, ripe flavours and a bold texture. Well structured and attractive, it’s dry, with gripping tannins, and has a juiciness that sets you up for grilled red meats.
Man Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
WO Coastal Region $14.95 (96446)
Look for plenty of sweet, ripe fruit here, well balanced with a broad seam of acidity. There’s not a lot of complexity or structure, but it’s an easy-drinker and effortlessly accompanies burgers, ribs, spicy sausages and red meats.
Café Culture Pinotage 2008
WO Western Cape $13.95 (72710)
All wine is manufactured, but this wine goes a step further and is made to highlight the coffee flavours that can be obtained by barrel-aging pinotage. In this sense it’s unbalanced and a freak wine. Why anyone would want coffee-flavoured wine is beyond me but, if it’s in this release, the last shipment of this wine must have sold…..
WO Tulbagh $16.95 (89698)
This is a good pinotage, with solid and fairly complex flavours, but without a lot of character. Medium-bodied and dry, with well-pitched fruit-acid balance, it’s a good choice for spicy sausages or well-seasoned red meats.
Meerendal Pinotage 2004
WO Durbanville $19.95 (96347)
This is an older-style pinotage with some acrid and slight bitter notes lurking among the fruit. The flavours are solid, though, and it’s well balanced. It’s ideal for barbecued meat and sausages, if you have a functioning barbecue at this time of year. If not, broil them.
Cathedral Cellar Merlot 2003
WO Coastal Region $16.95 (522219)
This is a quite delicious merlot, with quite plush and complex fruit that’s solid right through the palate. Nearly six years old, it’s holding its acid and tannins well. Drink it (with red meats) now and by the end of 2010.
Graham Beck Merlot 2004
WO Western Cape $15.95 (607804)
Most of the fruit for this quite attractive merlot come from Roberts and Franschoek. It’s made in an understated and fairly taut style, with sweet and uncomplicated fruit flavours. With a juicy texture and easy-going tannins, it’s a good choice for roast pork or a grilled veal chop.
Stark-Condé Syrah 2005
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (79525)
This is a really lovely syrah, with a lot of complexity in the flavours and a terrific seam of acidity that contributes an edgy tanginess to the texture. It’s drinking now and will hold another year or two. Open it with grilled lamb.
Sparkling wine feature
Deutz Rosé Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne, France $63.95 (92833)
Rosé champagnes are on a roll, and this is a good example of the expanding list of champagne houses going pink. The fruit here is solid and restrained, with good complexity, while the mousse is full and soft. Nicely balanced and dry, it’s for sipping or, perhaps better, for drinking with mixed appetizers.
Gosset Grand Rosé Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne, 1er Cru, France $79.95 (989442)
This is a fairly serious champagne, with quite taut and complex flavours and a hint of clean, tart bitterness. With crisp acidity and a fine and firm mousse, it’s a champagne you can pair with herbed poultry or pork.
Jackson-Triggs ‘Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Brut Sparkling Wine 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $24.95 (587691)
This is a very dry sparkling wine (made using the champagne method) that delivers solid but restrained fruit flavours underpinned by a firm seam of crisp acidity. The mousse is soft and clean, and you can drink this with grilled seafood or chicken.
Château des Charmes Méthode Traditionnelle Rosé 2005
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario $28.95 (78055)
Look for very attractive, vibrant flavours here, back by crisp acidity. The mousse is soft and quite elegant, and this is a sparkler you can sip alone or drink with chicken, turkey or pork.
Graham Beck Brut
WO Western Cape, South Africa $18.95 (593483)
This is a well-made sparkling wine made, using the Champagne method, from chardonnay and pinot noir. It has well-defined flavours, crisp acidity, and a mousse that leaves a clean finish. You can sip it alone, or drink it with grilled seafood or chicken.
The main release
Fortified wine
Fernando de Castilla Class Old Medium Amontillado Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $21.95 (721902)
This is an excellent price for an Amontillado of this quality. Look for rich and complex flavours supported by an edgy tanginess that’s contributed by the well-managed acidity.
Fonseca ‘Quinta do Panascal’ Vintage Port 2001
DO Douro e Porto, Portugal $64.95 (585893)
This is a huge, dense and complex Port, with rich flavours speaking to depth and breadth. At the same time, it has a good spine of acidity and supple tannins. Drink it now and over the next ten years, with rich, high-cocoa chocolate dessert.
White wines
Inniskillin ‘Commemorative Edition’ Vidal Icewine 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $58.95/375mL (87775)
Look for rich, sweet flavours with good complexity in this attractive icewine. They’re matched by a good dose of acidity, as you’d expect from the 2006 vintage
Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon 1996
AOC Coteaux du Layon, France $37.95 (707307)
This is pretty much an iconic wine, and the price is very reasonable, indeed. It’s an off-dry/semi-sweet white made from chenin blanc and pre-cellared for you. At 12 years old, it’s still evolving and, although you can certainly enjoy it now, it will last many more decades. Right now it’s a bottle of luscious decadence, with the discipline of structure and complexity.
Red wines
Henry of Pelham Merlot 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $19.75 (91165)
This is a quite stylish merlot, with lovely fruit, weight and balance. The fruit is nicely extracted, with some attractive evidence of oak, and it’s a red that pairs well with roast pork and herbed roast chicken, as well as red meats.
Folie à Deux Ménage à Trois Red 2007
California $19.95 (665158)
This is a full-bodied red that will pair well with big-flavoured dishes like pepper steak. It relies a bit much on its power and full-throttle fruit, though, and comes up a bit short on complexity and structure.
Opus One 2005
Napa Valley, California $360.95/750mL (26310) or $189.95/375mL (26294)
(This also has other CSPC numbers, which you can locate at lcbo.com.) I would cellar this another three years before opening it, because the tannins are still obscuring the beautiful fruit. It has deep complexity, fine structure and an opulent texture. It’s worth the wait to get it right.
Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Estate 2005
Santa Cruz Mountains, California $60.95 (89284)
This is a delicious and stylish blend of cabernet sauvignon (58%) and merlot that has everything in place. The fruit is well extracted and structured, the acidity is right and refreshing, the balance excellent. With supple tannins holding well, it’s drinking now, but will benefit from a year or two before drinking through to 2015.
Renacer ‘Punto Final’ Reserva Malbec 2005
Perdriel, Mendoza, Argentina $23.95 (75077)
With so many value-priced malbecs from Argentina on the market, I wonder if there’s going to be any resistance to paying over $20. This one is certainly worth the price, offering, as it does, rich, dense fruit, and very good balance and structure. It’s a natural fro grilled red meat.
Terraza de los Andes Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza, Argentina $18.95 (77776)
With all the malbecs flowing from Argentina, the other reds can easily be overlooked. Frankly, I’m more impressed with the cabernets than the malbecs, and this one is a terrific example. It delivers not only well-extracted and –defined fruit, but excellent structure and a refreshing, food-friendly texture. Drink it with red meats, grilled or roasted.
Odfjell ‘Armador’ Carmenère 2005
DO Maule and Maipo Valleys, Chile $13.95 (83295)
Quite big bodied and with decent complexity, this delivers more structure than most carmenères at this price. It’s dry and well balanced, and goes well with well-seasoned red meats.
Viu Manent Reserva Carmenère 2006
DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $16.95 (45161)
This is big and fruity but, like too many carmenères, it doesn’t offer a lot of complexity or structure. Even so, it’s a good choice for well-seasoned or spicy red meat dishes, such as barbecued ribs.
Viña Requingua ‘Puerto Viejo’ Reserve Merlot 2005
DO Curicó Valley, Chile $12.95 (86579)
The big positive here is the balance achieved between the fairly big and definitely luscious fruit and the refreshing acidity. It’s well put-together and at a very good price. With easy-going tannins, it’s a great match for red meats of all kinds.
d’Arenberg ‘The High Trellis’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
McLaren Vale, Australia $19.95 (943456)
Always a very attractive blend (it includes a dash of merlot and petit verdot), this vintage delivers complex and nicely defined flavours, very good structure, a juicy texture and excellent balance. The tannins are quite firm, and giving it a little time is not a bad idea. Then drink it through to 2015 or maybe beyond.
Kilikanoon ‘Blocks Road’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Clare Valley, Australia $34.95 (926790)
Rich and densely flavoured, this is a well-structured cab that speaks to style and some elegance. It’s very well balanced, has a refreshing texture, and has sweet tannins that are gripping firmly. You could just drink it now, but I suggest holding another year or two, then drinking through to 2017.
Knappstein Cabernet-Merlot 2005
Clare Valley, Australia $19.95 (593350)
This is an intensely flavoured blend (in addition to cabernet and merlot, there’s a little cabernet franc and malbec) that’s medium-full bodied and well structured. The fruit flavours are ripe, and there’s a little warmth (from the 14.5% alcohol?) in the otherwise attractive texture. Drink t now and over the next four-five years with steak.
Langmeil ‘Blacksmith’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Barossa Valley, Australia $22.95 (644039)
This is bold but refreshing red that delivers big richness without sacrificing style. The fruit flavours are prominent and plush, nicely complex, and well balanced by a broad spine of acidity. It’s ready for drinking now, with a range of red meat-based dishes, and will hold nicely for another five years.
Teusner ‘The Riebke’ Ebenezer Road Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, Australia $23.95 (48470)
This is a great buy for mid-term cellaring. I suggest holding it another two or three years, then drinking through to 2020. There’s lots of tight fruit and complexity here, and a great vein of acidity, but the tannins are in control. Give t some time to relax, and you’ll have a great companion for a grilled cut of red meat.
Water Wheel Memsie 2007
Bendigo, Australia $13.95 (6566367)
This is extraordinary value. It’s a blend of shiraz (70%), cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petit verdot that punches well above its weight in dollars. Look for concentrated complexity in the flavours, very good balance and structure, and sleek tannins. It’s a natural for grilled or roasted red meats.
Pierre Sparr Réserve Pinot Noir 2007
AOC Alsace, France $17.95 (38992)
This is a lovely, delicate and quite stylish pinot noir that makes a great partner for roasted or grilled poultry or (as the Vintages catalog suggests) poached salmon. It’s aromatic and tangy, with nicely pitched and nuanced fruit, all lifted by an attractive seam of acidity. Try this as style of pinot noir out of the mainstream offering.
Château de Pez 2006
AOC Saint-Estèphe, France $48.95 (601427)
Astringently dry, with sleek tannins, this has well-defined fruit and very good balance. The fruit is well extracted and complex, and it’s a good partner for roast beef and rot vegetables.
Château la Vieille Croix 2005
AOC Fronsac, France $32.95 (92544)
This elegant wine delivers beautifully nuanced fruit through the length and breadth of the palate. It’s dry (very dry), well structured, and shows very good balance delivered by a seam of refreshing acidity. With supple tannins, it’s drinking well now (with roast beef) and will hold another five to seven years.
Château Roudier 2005
AOC Montagne Saint-Emilion, France $28.95 (945220)
This needs a couple more years before opening; then it’s good another 10 years. The fruit is intensely flavoured and nicely layered, and it’s complemented by a solid seam of acidity. Once the tannins start singing from the same page, this will be a fine partner for grilled or roasted red meats.
Domaine des Moulins Morgon 2007
AOC Morgon, France $18.95 (108258)
Here’s a red you might enjoy with roast chicken or turkey. It’s fairly light on fruit, yet with some attractive and vibrant layers, has good acidity, and quite decent structure.
Albert Bichot ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Pinot Noir 2006
AOC Bourgogne, France $18.95 (43331)
This fairly simple and straightforward Burgundy delivers fruit that’s solid enough, but doesn’t have a lot of complexity or structure. The balance is good, the tannins light, and it’s a good match for cold cuts, chicken, turkey, and perhaps for poached salmon.
Louis Jadot ‘Boucherottes’ Beaune 2006
AOC Beaune, 1er Cru, France $59.95 (47837)
This is a lovely pinot noir, with remarkable plush and even plump flavours that are elegant and nuanced. It’s smooth-textured, with supple tannins and a very dry finish. Drink it with grilled lamb or a rich mushroom risotto.
Château Vessière Costières de Nîmes 2006
AOC Costières de Nîmes, France $15.95 (104877)
There’s a certain off-centre rusticity to the texture here, the sort of texture that makes me think of a juicy cut of red meat, grilled no more than medium-rare. The flavours are intense and well structured, the balance is great… it’s to shovel the snow off the barbecue.
Domaine Saint Andéol ‘Prestige’ Cairanne 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages, France $19.95 (104943)
Big, bold and delicious, this CdR blend is full of fruit, layered, and complex. It has good balance, chewy tannins, and it’s a great choice for well-seasoned red meats.
Pierre Laplace Madiran 2005
AOC Madiran, France $14.95 (103705)
This is great value, a bargain price for a red that’s got lots of depth and breadth, very good structure and smooth tannins. Madiran must be between 40% and 60% tannat, which accounts for the flavour and texture here. It’s very good with spicy (garlic) sausage.
Terredora Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso 2005
DOC Vesuvio, Italy $20.95 (93088)
Made from the piedirosso variety, this is a lovely red that complements a wide range of food, from herbed roast chicken through to grilled lamb. The flavours deliver great complexity and the texture is elegant and soft. It’s a real delight and well worth trying.
Pio Cesare Barbaresco 2004
DOCG Barbaresco, Italy $73.95 (112474)
I like the flavours here. They’re quite polished and well extracted, with good complexity and flow-through, and they’re framed by sweet and supple tannins. The acidity seemed a touch off, a little low for Barbaresco, but this makes a very good proposition for osso bucco.
Pio Cesare Barbera d’Alba 2006
DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $21.95 (938886)
Stylish and elegant, and a real complement to a rich meat and tomato-based dish, this barbera delivers concentrated and layered flavours with a broad spine of refreshing acidity.
Rivera il Falcone Riserva 2004
DOC Castel del Monte, Italy $21.95 (945154)
The fruit here is fairly restrained, although not what I’d call tightly wound. It’s got good complexity and definition, and is well complemented by a broad `seam of refreshing acidity. It’s a great choice for rich lasagna.
Ca’Marcanda Promis 2006
IGT Toscana, Italy $49.95 (745638)
This wine is made by Angelo Gaja and, as you’d expect, it’s well made and represents good value. It delivers vibrant and expressive flavours that are framed by sweet, supple tannins and lifted by refreshing acidity. It’s a fine wine to serve now and over the next 10 years with a grilled veal chop.
Brigaldara Amarone dela Valpolicella Classico 2005
DOC Amarone dela Valpolicella Classico, Italy $26.95/375mL (958090)
Huge and tannic, rich and acidic, this really needs a couple of years’ aging, although you could decant it and drink it now with a rare-ish steak or aged cheese. Through the sheer heft of the wine, you’ll find excellent structure and nuance.
Cuatro Pasos Mencía 2006
DO Bierzo, Spain $16.95 (39313)
There’s great complexity in the fruit here, with a mix of pungent, vibrant and mature notes. The refreshing balance is well done and the tannins are easy-going. Drink it with grilled veal or pork.
Pointing ahead
Look for these wines in forthcoming Vintages releasesVintages release, February 28, 2009
Sileni ‘Cellar Selection’ Pinot Noir 2007
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $15.00 (694901)
It’s not overly complex, but it’s a very, very attractive pinot noir at an excellent price. Look for nicely pitched vibrant fruit flavours, refreshing acidity and easy-going tannins here, with a very good balance of all the components. Drinking now and over the next three-four years, it’s a great choice for grilled or roasted lamb and for hearty pasta.
Vintages release, April 2009
Château Hauchat 2005
AOC Fronsac, Bordeaux $15.00 (123489)
What a lovely Fronsac for drinking now or for mid-term cellaring, and what a great price. It’s rare to find a Bordeaux that’s not a blend, but this 100% merlot hits all the points through the palate very effectively. The well-defined flavours are concentrated and restrained, and they’re well balanced by a seam of acidity that adds a refreshing dimension to the texture. The tannins are supple and manageable. It’s drinking now (try it with roast beef) and it will easily hold another seven or eight years.
Cheers!
Rod.