| | Print | |
|
No. 12: July 30, 2008In this issue:
Vintages release, August 2, 2008This release begins with features on South African and French wines. After those reviews, you'll find reviews for Sherry, whites, rosés and reds in the main release. Then look for new releases from Ontario wineries, with a feature on Featherstone winery. South Africa featureWhite wines  Winds of Change Organic Chardonnay 2007 WO Western Cape $13.95 (22046) This is a fairly straightforward Chardonnay with solid fruit and an attractive texture, but it doesn't stand out among other Chardonnays in this price range. It's a bit blowsy and fruity for my taste, but it might well have broad appeal. And it's organic, which is important to some consumers.  L'Avenir Chenin Blanc 2007 WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (72645) This is a very good Chenin Blanc, a pleasure to drink among a lot of pretty mediocre Chenins. Look for well-managed fruit flavours, with a solid ripe core and nice layering, and decent structure and balance. Drink it with grilled seafood. Boschendal 'Reserve Collection' Sauvignon Blanc 2007 WO Coastal Region $16.95 (82438) A very well-made Sauvignon Blanc, this delivers nicely defined and quite rich and pungent fruit along with a crisp and zesty texture. It's what you look for in a Sauvignon Blanc, and well priced. Open it with grilled white fish with a squeeze of lemon. Bouchard Finlayson Sauvignon Blanc 2007 WO Walker Bay $18.95 (701540) This is a juicy, zesty Sauvignon Blanc that preps your palate for food. There's a broad and fairly deep seam of acidity here that complements the rich flavours. It's an excellent choice for grilled white fish and seafood with a squeeze of lemon. Rosé wines Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé WO Stellenbosch $12.95 (999821) A nice combination of the best in easy-drinking rosés, this has both fresh and vivacious fruit flavours and a dry and solid texture. It's one you can happily drink on its own or pair with summer salads, chicken, or ham. Red wines  Nederburg 'Manor House' Shiraz 2006 WO Coastal Region, South Africa $16.95 The grapes for this wine came from the Philadelphia and Paarl regions. They've produced a lovely Shiraz that's full of rich flavours that are nicely defined and layered. It's generous, plush and smooth in the mouth, with some tanginess from the balanced acidity. If you're looking for a different take on Shiraz, try this one. It's a natural for lamb and other red meats. (Previously reviewed in Winepointer) Nederburg 'Manor House' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 WO Paarl, South Africa $16.95 Look for a well-made Cabernet, with excellent balance among fruit, acid and tannins. The fruit is forward and intense, with a sweet core and interesting layers, and it's lifted by a broad seam of acidity that contributes to a texture that's rich, tangy and refreshing. The tannins are supple and manageable. This is a good choice for grilled and roasted red meats. (Previously reviewed in Winepointer) Stark-Condé Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (68460) This is a well-paced Cabernet that delivers good structure and forward ripe fruit that's layered throughout and sweet at the core. The tannins are drinking well now and the texture is mouth-filling and smooth. Drink it with grilled red meats.  Black Rock Red 2006 WO Swartland $23.95 (68502) Big, bold, and impressive, this Syrah-dominant blend (66%, with smaller components of old-vine Carignan, plus Mourvèdre, Grenache and a dash of Viognier) comes from cooler parts of the otherwise hot Swartland region. It delivers terrific structure and style in fruit and structure, and has sweet tannins. It's an excellent choice for grilled lamb chops. Café Culture Pinotage 2007 WO Western Cape $13.95 (72710) This is a weird wine. It's made to highlight the coffee flavours that barrel-aging can produce, and in that it's very successful. But although winemakers make wine to achieve particular results, there's something odd about this. The flavours are so distorted that it tastes as if the wine has been infused with essence of espresso. The rest of the Pinotage is drowned by it. It's a sort of novelty wine ("Look what we can make this wine do!"), but give it a go. Maybe I'm too narrow-minded for this, but if I want coffee, I'll go to a coffee shop. Long Mountain Reserve Pinotage 2007 WO Western Cape $13.95 (68742) This Pinotage is very attractive and is a good example of the newer style of the varietal. The fruit is quite concentrated and nicely nuanced, and there's good structure and depth to the texture. It's an obvious choice for grilled red meats. Tukulu Pinotage 2005 WO Darling $21.95 (68700) This is a very well-made Pinotage, with ripe, sweet fruit flavours that are attractive, solid and quite complex. The well-balanced texture is mouth-filling, generous and quite tangy, and the tannins are soft to moderate. Drink this with red meat grilled on the barbecue: lamb, steak or game.  Man Vintners Shiraz 2006 WO Coastal Region $12.95 (71332) If you're looking for a change from well-priced Australian Shiraz, try this. It's young and up-front in its fruit flavours, with decent complexity and a nice tangy texture. There's some pleasant grip in the tannins, and this makes a great wine for the barbecue. France featureWhite wines Enseduna Marsanne 2006 Vin de Pays des Coteaux d'Ensérune $14.95 (79004) This is a really lovely white that's full of intense flavours. A broad seam of acidity contributes a refreshing dimension to the generous and mouth-filling texture. Drink it with grilled salmon or with white fish with a cream-based sauce. Red wines Château de Serame 'Réserve du Château' Rouge 2005 AOC Corbières $16.95 (51870) This blend of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache is impressive across the board. The flavours are rich and quite complex, the texture is substantial and refreshingly juicy. It's dry and almost full bodied, and it's a very good choice for barbecued red meats. Château Saint-Eulalie 'La Cantilène' 2005 AOC Minervois $22.95 (8839) This is a delicious blend of Syrah (55%), Grenache (30%) and Carignan (15%) that delivers lovely, rich flavours and a generous and tangy texture. It's dry, well structured, has sweet tannins with moderate grip, and it goes very well with roast or grilled red meats. Domaine du Ministre Rouge 2005 AOC Saint-Chinian $15.95 (654558) This is one of those reds that are perfect for the barbecue when you're grilling burgers, beef, lamb or game. It's a good price and it delivers on rich flavours that have structure and richness, a solid, tangy texture, and moderate, drinkable tannins. The main releaseSherry Lustau Amontillado 'La Plaza Vieja' Medium Golden Sherry DO Jerez, Spain $19.95 (699421) The sweetness in this Sherry is very well counter-balanced by the nice line of acidity that runs throughout the palate. Look for complexity in the flavours and a fairly tight structure, and drink it with seared foie gras or sip it with mixed dried fruit and nuts. White winesSauvignon Blanc Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc 2006 Sonoma County, California $22.95 (354993) Fumé Blanc is the alias that Sauvignon Blanc travels under in parts of California. (It's a reversal of Blanc Fumé, as the variety is known as in parts of the Loire Valley.) This Sonoma example is quite elegant, with a fine balance between the quite complex and vibrant fruit and a broad seam of acidity. It's quite dense in texture, and a good partner for a grilled fish/seafood meal. Like many well-made Sauvignons, it will develop complexity without losing its zestiness if you cellar it carefully for a couple of years. Joseph Phelps Sauvignon Blanc 2006 St. Helena, Napa Valley, California $22.95 (34546) A big dash (8%) Semillon in this Sauvignon adds perceptibly to its depth and texture. It's full of layered flavours that are both pungent and vibrant, and it has the broad band of acidity you expect from the variety. It's solid, yet light on its feet, and it's excellent with grilled white fish and a squeeze of lemon. Kunde 'Magnolia Lane' Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Sonoma Valley, California $18.95 (67363) This is a fairly taut Sauvignon Blanc that delivers solid and clean fruit flavours that ride in on a texture that's characterized by a broad seam of fairly acute acidity. It's not a wine for sipping on its own, but it's a terrific choice for grilled seafood and fish drizzled with lemon juice. Other white wines Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2006 Sonoma County, California $19.95 (226936) This is an attractive wine that should gain a lot of fans. It's a substantial but fairly lean Chardonnay with very well balanced layered fruit on the one hand and a generous but crisp and refreshing texture on the other. It's really delightful, and an excellent choice when you're serving pork tenderloin or pork chops with a fruit sauce or salsa. Marc Brédif Vouvray 2006 AOC Vouvray, France $20.95 (685362) Just off-dry, this is a lovely Vouvray (therefore 100% Chenin Blanc) that delivers rich texture and a texture enlivened by a broad seam of acidity. Look for lots of complexity and style here, and drink it with lightly spiced Asian cuisine. Boutari Moschofilero 2007 AO Mantinia, Greece $12.95 (650671) This is an excellent summer white, a wine that delivers fresh fruit flavours with a good level of complexity, along with a crisp, refreshing texture. It's dry and medium bodied and perfect for sipping on its own or for drinking with light mixed appetizers and slightly spicy seafood. (Previously reviewed in Winepointer) Salviano Orvieto Classico Superiore 2006 DOC Orvieto Classico Superiore, Italy $14.95 (714188) If you're steaming mussels in white wine and garlic (and, ideally, serving them with fries) or grilling seafood, this is the wine for you. Its crisp texture supports the bright and vibrant fruit very well, and it's beautifully balanced. Rosé wines Kir-Yianni 'Akakies' Dry Rosé 2007 AOC Amyndeon, Greece $12.95 (71050) Made from 100% Xinomavro, this is a very good choice for summer meals of barbecued seafood or chicken. It delivers fresh, vibrant fruit flavours and a clean, crisp and above all dry texture. Chivite 'Gran Feudo' Rosado 2007 DO Navarra, Spain $11.95 (256149) Made mainly from Grenache grapes, this free-run rosé is fruity and fresh, delicious and refreshing. There's some complexity in the flavours and softness in the acidity, and it's a wine you can sip alone or drink with summer salads with smoked ham or chicken. Red winesPinot Noir Lailey Pinot Noir 2006 VQA Niagara River, Ontario $24.95 (591404) This is an attractive Pinot in many respects, with nicely defined fruit and a texture that's high-toned and refreshing. It's made in a lighter style, but there's some substance at the core. Drink it with herbed roast chicken. Yering Station Pinot Noir 2005 Yarra Valley, Australia $22.95 (20255) This is a very successful Pinot Noir from a sterling producer in one of Australia's noted cool regions. It has a fairly taut texture and the fruit is understated but substantial. It articulates style and class at a quite remarkable price. Drink it now and over the next five years with pork tenderloin or grilled lamb. Delta Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007 Marlborough, New Zealand $22.95 (675231) This is a full-flavoured, fairly intense Pinot Noir with rich and pungent fruit flavours. It's medium bodied with a generous and smooth texture, and it has the heft to take on grilled and well-seasoned red meat dishes. Henri de Villamont Bourgogne Rouge 2006 AOC Bourgogne, France $18.95 (84616) This is an easy-drinking Burgundy in a fairly light style. The fruit is bright and vibrant and the texture is astringently dry. Open it with a roasted herbed chicken or grilled pork tenderloin. Other red wines Lailey Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 VQA Niagara River, Ontario $24.95 (591370) This is an attractive cool-climate Cabernet that delivers fairly consistent and nicely complex fruit throughout the palate. It's medium bodied and has a refreshing texture that tilts it definitively toward food&mdashas you want with Cabernet. Pair it up with a grilled veal chop. Leyda 'Classic Reserve' Carmenère 2006 DO Rapel Valley, Chile $13.95 (66845) Carmenère is a very late-ripener, and the hunt is on for regions that have a long enough growing-season to support it. Leyda have found one here, because this Carmenère delivers beautifully ripe fruit flavours and everything else this increasingly popular variety should offer. It's a bargain and a great partner for grilled red meats. Penfolds 'Bin 128' Shiraz 2004 Coonawarra, Australia $34.95 (509919) This is always a popular Shiraz and the 2004 vintage comes in strong. You get great structure and balance here, as the complex, dense and layered fruit meshes with a fairly opulent and distinctly smooth texture to produce a wine that's remarkably stylish for the price. A recipe for summer bliss: marinate a rack of lamb, grill it medium rare, and enjoy it with this wine. Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 McLaren Vale, Australia $23.95 (30374) In the tried-and-true Pirramimma style, this is big, fruit-forward, stylish and sculpted. The fruit is very well-managed and it flows in on a generous and intense texture that takes no prisoners. The tannins are firm but drinking well now, and you can enjoy it for another five years, minimum. Torbreck 'Woodcutter's' Shiraz 2006 Barossa Valley, Australia $24.95 (92533) Look for sweet fruit at the core of this Shiraz, surrounded by nicely layered flavours. It's rich, dense and quite luscious, with an edgy, slightly tangy texture. Drink it now and over the next five years with grilled red meats. La Demoiselle d'Haut Peyrat 2004 AOC Haut-Médoc, France $32.95 (82511) This is a reasonably priced Bordeaux that delivers style and substance. The fruit is solid and well defined and the texture is as smooth as silk with nicely integrated tannins. Everything is in place here, and you can drink it now and through to 2013. I suggest roast beef or steak. Château de Nages Réserve 2005 AOC Costières de Nîmes, France $14.95 (427617) Michel Gassier seldom puts a foot wrong, and this compelling blend of Grenache (70%) and Syrah (30%) reflects his popular style. It delivers rich and layered flavours with a texture that's well structured and generous, and it's an excellent choice for barbecued red meats. Château de Surville Prestige 2006 AOC Costières de Nîmes, France $18.95 (78766) If you're looking for a big-bodied, full-flavoured red to drink with your burgers, steak or ribs, try this. It's a blend of Syrah (80%) and Grenache (20%) and it's mouth filling and generous. Rich and bold, yes, but not at the expense of structure. Boutari Grande Reserve 2001 AO Naoussa, Greece $13.95 (73510) This is a fairly substantial red that's 100% Xinomavro, the most widely planted red grape in Greece. Made from older (35-year-old) vines, it delivers complex and solid flavours with a full and tangy texture. It's just the wine for barbecued red meats, like marinated lamb and beef. Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (969477) Good grief! The review in the Vintages catalog says that the 2003 vintage of this wine had aromas of animal skins. It's just as well we have the 2004, here. No animal skins detected, you'll be glad to know. Just intense fruit flavours with a lot of complexity, and an astringently dry texture. The tannins are well integrated, and this is drinking well now and in the next year or so. It's very good with ossobuco. Pointing aheadLook for these wines in forthcoming Vintages releases Vintages release, August 16, 2008 Domaine Lamargue Viognier 2007 Vin de Pays d'Oc, France $17.95 (525428) This is a rich, even opulent Viognier, that delivers mouth-filling and generous flavours that are intense and nicely layered. A seam of acidity comes to the surface at mid-palate, cutting through the textural richness and the fruit intensity, and making this a terrific choice for spicy seafood and for smoked pork and poultry. Vintages release, August 16, 2008 Tabalí Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2007 DO Limarí Valley, Chile $12.95 (662999) From one of Chile's northern wine regions, this is shows well-defined flavours and a broad line of soft acidity, both in excellent proportion. Each sip seems to bring forth a new dimension of flavour, while the acidity provides a line of continuity. It's an excellent partner for freshly shucked oysters or for dense-textured white fish. Vintages release, October 2008 Terra d'Aligi 'Tatone' Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005 DOC Montepulciano d'Abuzzo, Italy $15.95 (994616) This is a well-structured 100% Montepulciano, with complex, finely defined fruit flavours that are sleek and high toned. They're complemented by a fairly taut but juicy texture and ripe tannins with a firm but gentle grip. I first tasted this vintage at a dinner in Rome, where it went beautifully with a braised veal shank. New from Ontario wineriesFeature: Featherstone Estate Winery and VineyardThese whites, all classified with the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation on Niagara Peninsula, were released in July and are now available from the winery. To order them, call 905 562 1949 or visit www.featherstonewinery.ca. Featherstone Old Vines Riesling 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.95 This is a stylish Riesling with nicely sculpted and layered fruit. The broad seam of acidic has good depth, too, and it complements the fruit exceptionally well, making for a medium-bodied and quite substantial texture. This is an excellent choice for well-seasoned chicken, turkey or pork. Featherstone 'Black Sheep' Riesling 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 There's a lovely tension between sweet and sour here, a friendly tussle of intense flavours on both sides. Then the acidity steps in to mediate, and the texture settles down to a food-friendly consensus. This is great with spicy seafood or with smoked salmon. Featherstone Gewürztraminer 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.95 Unmistakably Gewürztraminer, this delivers striking and stylish aromas, lovely flavours that are layered and nuanced, and a plush, mouth-filling texture. It's a little fat, as you expect from the variety, and it has the characteristic click of bitterness at the end. Gewürztraminer is going gangbusters in Niagara at the moment, and this is more confirmation of the variety's success in the region. Featherstone Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $13.95 This is a luscious, creamy textured Chardonnay, not a leaner style that you might expect from stainless steel. The fruit is ripe and sweet at the core, plush and attractive, with nice layering. It's well balanced by the texture, which is mouth filling, a touch fat, with a little edginess that brings it closer to food. It's delicious with chicken, turkey or pork. Featherstone Sauvignon Blanc 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $15.95 Look for lengthy flavours that are deep and pungent, and the merest hint of attractive bitterness at the close. With a broad seam of acidity, this is nicely balanced and is a great choice for oysters or white fish with a squeeze of lemon. Other Ontario wineries Peninsula Ridge Gewürztraminer 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 This is Peninsula Ridge's first foray into Gewürztraminer, and it's a very good start. It's not made in the blowsy, in-your-face style, with aromas that bound from the glass. Instead, it's fairly taut and tightly wound, with fine layers of flavour and a fine seam of acidity. Well balanced and definitely a wine for food, it's a great match for Thai cuisine. Try it with a green Thai curry. Order from 905 563 0900 or This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it
Cheers! Rod. No. 12: July 30, 2008In this issue:
Vintages release, August 2, 2008This release begins with features on South African and French wines. After those reviews, you'll find reviews for Sherry, whites, rosés and reds in the main release. Then look for new releases from Ontario wineries, with a feature on Featherstone winery. South Africa featureWhite wines Winds of Change Organic Chardonnay 2007 WO Western Cape $13.95 (22046) This is a fairly straightforward Chardonnay with solid fruit and an attractive texture, but it doesn't stand out among other Chardonnays in this price range. It's a bit blowsy and fruity for my taste, but it might well have broad appeal. And it's organic, which is important to some consumers. L'Avenir Chenin Blanc 2007 WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (72645) This is a very good Chenin Blanc, a pleasure to drink among a lot of pretty mediocre Chenins. Look for well-managed fruit flavours, with a solid ripe core and nice layering, and decent structure and balance. Drink it with grilled seafood. Boschendal 'Reserve Collection' Sauvignon Blanc 2007 WO Coastal Region $16.95 (82438) A very well-made Sauvignon Blanc, this delivers nicely defined and quite rich and pungent fruit along with a crisp and zesty texture. It's what you look for in a Sauvignon Blanc, and well priced. Open it with grilled white fish with a squeeze of lemon. Bouchard Finlayson Sauvignon Blanc 2007 WO Walker Bay $18.95 (701540) This is a juicy, zesty Sauvignon Blanc that preps your palate for food. There's a broad and fairly deep seam of acidity here that complements the rich flavours. It's an excellent choice for grilled white fish and seafood with a squeeze of lemon. Rosé wines Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé WO Stellenbosch $12.95 (999821) A nice combination of the best in easy-drinking rosés, this has both fresh and vivacious fruit flavours and a dry and solid texture. It's one you can happily drink on its own or pair with summer salads, chicken, or ham. Red wines Nederburg 'Manor House' Shiraz 2006 WO Coastal Region, South Africa $16.95 The grapes for this wine came from the Philadelphia and Paarl regions. They've produced a lovely Shiraz that's full of rich flavours that are nicely defined and layered. It's generous, plush and smooth in the mouth, with some tanginess from the balanced acidity. If you're looking for a different take on Shiraz, try this one. It's a natural for lamb and other red meats. (Previously reviewed in Winepointer) Nederburg 'Manor House' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 WO Paarl, South Africa $16.95 Look for a well-made Cabernet, with excellent balance among fruit, acid and tannins. The fruit is forward and intense, with a sweet core and interesting layers, and it's lifted by a broad seam of acidity that contributes to a texture that's rich, tangy and refreshing. The tannins are supple and manageable. This is a good choice for grilled and roasted red meats. (Previously reviewed in Winepointer) Stark-Condé Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (68460) This is a well-paced Cabernet that delivers good structure and forward ripe fruit that's layered throughout and sweet at the core. The tannins are drinking well now and the texture is mouth-filling and smooth. Drink it with grilled red meats. Black Rock Red 2006 WO Swartland $23.95 (68502) Big, bold, and impressive, this Syrah-dominant blend (66%, with smaller components of old-vine Carignan, plus Mourvèdre, Grenache and a dash of Viognier) comes from cooler parts of the otherwise hot Swartland region. It delivers terrific structure and style in fruit and structure, and has sweet tannins. It's an excellent choice for grilled lamb chops. Café Culture Pinotage 2007 WO Western Cape $13.95 (72710) This is a weird wine. It's made to highlight the coffee flavours that barrel-aging can produce, and in that it's very successful. But although winemakers make wine to achieve particular results, there's something odd about this. The flavours are so distorted that it tastes as if the wine has been infused with essence of espresso. The rest of the Pinotage is drowned by it. It's a sort of novelty wine ("Look what we can make this wine do!"), but give it a go. Maybe I'm too narrow-minded for this, but if I want coffee, I'll go to a coffee shop. Long Mountain Reserve Pinotage 2007 WO Western Cape $13.95 (68742) This Pinotage is very attractive and is a good example of the newer style of the varietal. The fruit is quite concentrated and nicely nuanced, and there's good structure and depth to the texture. It's an obvious choice for grilled red meats. Tukulu Pinotage 2005 WO Darling $21.95 (68700) This is a very well-made Pinotage, with ripe, sweet fruit flavours that are attractive, solid and quite complex. The well-balanced texture is mouth-filling, generous and quite tangy, and the tannins are soft to moderate. Drink this with red meat grilled on the barbecue: lamb, steak or game. Man Vintners Shiraz 2006 WO Coastal Region $12.95 (71332) If you're looking for a change from well-priced Australian Shiraz, try this. It's young and up-front in its fruit flavours, with decent complexity and a nice tangy texture. There's some pleasant grip in the tannins, and this makes a great wine for the barbecue. France featureWhite wines Enseduna Marsanne 2006 Vin de Pays des Coteaux d'Ensérune $14.95 (79004) This is a really lovely white that's full of intense flavours. A broad seam of acidity contributes a refreshing dimension to the generous and mouth-filling texture. Drink it with grilled salmon or with white fish with a cream-based sauce. Red wines Château de Serame 'Réserve du Château' Rouge 2005 AOC Corbières $16.95 (51870) This blend of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache is impressive across the board. The flavours are rich and quite complex, the texture is substantial and refreshingly juicy. It's dry and almost full bodied, and it's a very good choice for barbecued red meats. Château Saint-Eulalie 'La Cantilène' 2005 AOC Minervois $22.95 (8839) This is a delicious blend of Syrah (55%), Grenache (30%) and Carignan (15%) that delivers lovely, rich flavours and a generous and tangy texture. It's dry, well structured, has sweet tannins with moderate grip, and it goes very well with roast or grilled red meats. Domaine du Ministre Rouge 2005 AOC Saint-Chinian $15.95 (654558) This is one of those reds that are perfect for the barbecue when you're grilling burgers, beef, lamb or game. It's a good price and it delivers on rich flavours that have structure and richness, a solid, tangy texture, and moderate, drinkable tannins. The main releaseSherry Lustau Amontillado 'La Plaza Vieja' Medium Golden Sherry DO Jerez, Spain $19.95 (699421) The sweetness in this Sherry is very well counter-balanced by the nice line of acidity that runs throughout the palate. Look for complexity in the flavours and a fairly tight structure, and drink it with seared foie gras or sip it with mixed dried fruit and nuts. White winesSauvignon Blanc Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc 2006 Sonoma County, California $22.95 (354993) Fumé Blanc is the alias that Sauvignon Blanc travels under in parts of California. (It's a reversal of Blanc Fumé, as the variety is known as in parts of the Loire Valley.) This Sonoma example is quite elegant, with a fine balance between the quite complex and vibrant fruit and a broad seam of acidity. It's quite dense in texture, and a good partner for a grilled fish/seafood meal. Like many well-made Sauvignons, it will develop complexity without losing its zestiness if you cellar it carefully for a couple of years. Joseph Phelps Sauvignon Blanc 2006 St. Helena, Napa Valley, California $22.95 (34546) A big dash (8%) Semillon in this Sauvignon adds perceptibly to its depth and texture. It's full of layered flavours that are both pungent and vibrant, and it has the broad band of acidity you expect from the variety. It's solid, yet light on its feet, and it's excellent with grilled white fish and a squeeze of lemon. Kunde 'Magnolia Lane' Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Sonoma Valley, California $18.95 (67363) This is a fairly taut Sauvignon Blanc that delivers solid and clean fruit flavours that ride in on a texture that's characterized by a broad seam of fairly acute acidity. It's not a wine for sipping on its own, but it's a terrific choice for grilled seafood and fish drizzled with lemon juice. Other white wines Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2006 Sonoma County, California $19.95 (226936) This is an attractive wine that should gain a lot of fans. It's a substantial but fairly lean Chardonnay with very well balanced layered fruit on the one hand and a generous but crisp and refreshing texture on the other. It's really delightful, and an excellent choice when you're serving pork tenderloin or pork chops with a fruit sauce or salsa. Marc Bédif Vouvray 2006 AOC Vouvray, France $20.95 (685362) Just off-dry, this is a lovely Vouvray (therefore 100% Chenin Blanc) that delivers rich texture and a texture enlivened by a broad seam of acidity. Look for lots of complexity and style here, and drink it with lightly spiced Asian cuisine. Boutari Moschofilero 2007 AO Mantinia, Greece $12.95 (650671) This is an excellent summer white, a wine that delivers fresh fruit flavours with a good level of complexity, along with a crisp, refreshing texture. It's dry and medium bodied and perfect for sipping on its own or for drinking with light mixed appetizers and slightly spicy seafood. (Previously reviewed in Winepointer) Salviano Orvieto Classico Superiore 2006 DOC Orvieto Classico Superiore, Italy $14.95 (714188) If you're steaming mussels in white wine and garlic (and, ideally, serving them with fries) or grilling seafood, this is the wine for you. Its crisp texture supports the bright and vibrant fruit very well, and it's beautifully balanced. Rosé wines Kir-Yianni 'Akakies' Dry Rosé 2007 AOC Amyndeon, Greece $12.95 (71050) Made from 100% Xinomavro, this is a very good choice for summer meals of barbecued seafood or chicken. It delivers fresh, vibrant fruit flavours and a clean, crisp and above all dry texture. Chivite 'Gran Feudo' Rosado 2007 DO Navarra $11.95 (256149) Made mainly from Grenache grapes, this free-run rosé is fruity and fresh, delicious and refreshing. There's some complexity in the flavours and softness in the acidity, and it's a wine you can sip alone or drink with summer salads with smoked ham or chicken. Red winesPinot Noir Lailey Pinot Noir 2006 VQA Niagara River, Ontario $24.95 (591404) This is an attractive Pinot in many respects, with nicely defined fruit and a texture that's high-toned and refreshing. It's made in a lighter style, but there's some substance at the core. Drink it with herbed roast chicken. Yering Station Pinot Noir 2005 Yarra Valley, Australia $22.95 (20255) This is a very successful Pinot Noir from a sterling producer in one of Australia's noted cool regions. It has a fairly taut texture and the fruit is understated but substantial. It articulates style and class at a quite remarkable price. Drink it now and over the next five years with pork tenderloin or grilled lamb. Delta Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007 Marlborough, New Zealand $22.95 (675231) This is a full-flavoured, fairly intense Pinot Noir with rich and pungent fruit flavours. It's medium bodied with a generous and smooth texture, and it has the heft to take on grilled and well-seasoned red meat dishes. Henri de Villamont Bourgogne Rouge 2006 AOC Bourgogne, France $18.95 (84616) This is an easy-drinking Burgundy in a fairly light style. The fruit is bright and vibrant and the texture is astringently dry. Open it with a roasted herbed chicken or grilled pork tenderloin. Other red wines Lailey Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 VQA Niagara River, Ontario $24.95 (591370) This is an attractive cool-climate Cabernet that delivers fairly consistent and nicely complex fruit throughout the palate. It's medium bodied and has a refreshing texture that tilts it definitively toward food&mdashas you want with Cabernet. Pair it up with a grilled veal chop. Leyda 'Classic Reserve' Carmenère 2006 DO Rapel Valley, Chile $13.95 (66845) Carmenère is a very late-ripener, and the hunt is on for regions that have a long enough growing-season to support it. Leyda have found one here, because this Carmenère delivers beautifully ripe fruit flavours and everything else this increasingly popular variety should offer. It's a bargain and a great partner for grilled red meats. Penfolds 'Bin 128' Shiraz 2004 Coonawarra, Australia $34.95 (509919) This is always a popular Shiraz and the 2004 vintage comes in strong. You get great structure and balance here, as the complex, dense and layered fruit meshes with a fairly opulent and distinctly smooth texture to produce a wine that's remarkably stylish for the price. A recipe for summer bliss: marinate a rack of lamb, grill it medium rare, and enjoy it with this wine. Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 McLaren Vale, Australia $23.95 (30374) In the tried-and-true Pirramimma style, this is big, fruit-forward, stylish and sculpted. The fruit is very well-managed and it flows in on a generous and intense texture that takes no prisoners. The tannins are firm but drinking well now, and you can enjoy it for another five years, minimum. Torbreck 'Woodcutter's' Shiraz 2006 Barossa Valley, Australia $24.95 (92533) Look for sweet fruit at the core of this Shiraz, surrounded by nicely layered flavours. It's rich, dense and quite luscious, with an edgy, slightly tangy texture. Drink it now and over the next five years with grilled red meats. La Demoiselle d'Haut Peyrat 2004 AOC Haut-Médoc, France $32.95 (82511) This is a reasonably priced Bordeaux that delivers style and substance. The fruit is solid and well defined and the texture is as smooth as silk with nicely integrated tannins. Everything is in place here, and you can drink it now and through to 2013. I suggest roast beef or steak. Château de Nages Réserve 2005 AOC Costières de Nîmes, France $14.95 (427617) Michel Gassier seldom puts a foot wrong, and this compelling blend of Grenache (70%) and Syrah (30%) reflects his popular style. It delivers rich and layered flavours with a texture that's well structured and generous, and it's an excellent choice for barbecued red meats. Château de Surville Prestige 2006 AOC Costières de Nîmes, France $18.95 (78766) If you're looking for a big-bodied, full-flavoured red to drink with your burgers, steak or ribs, try this. It's a blend of Syrah (80%) and Grenache (20%) and it's mouth filling and generous. Rich and bold, yes, but not at the expense of structure. Boutari Grande Reserve 2001 AO Naoussa, Greece $13.95 (73510) This is a fairly substantial red that's 100% Xinomavro, the most widely planted red grape in Greece. Made from older (35-year-old) vines, it delivers complex and solid flavours with a full and tangy texture. It's just the wine for barbecued red meats, like marinated lamb and beef. Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (969477) Good grief! The review in the Vintages catalog says that the 2003 vintage of this wine had aromas of animal skins. It's just as well we have the 2004, here. No animal skins detected, you'll be glad to know. Just intense fruit flavours with a lot of complexity, and an astringently dry texture. The tannins are well integrated, and this is drinking well now and in the next year or so. It's very good with ossobuco. Pointing aheadLook for these wines in forthcoming Vintages releases Vintages release, August 16, 2008 Domaine Lamargue Viognier 2007 Vin de Pays d'Oc, France $17.95 (525428) This is a rich, even opulent Viognier, that delivers mouth-filling and generous flavours that are intense and nicely layered. A seam of acidity comes to the surface at mid-palate, cutting through the textural richness and the fruit intensity, and making this a terrific choice for spicy seafood and for smoked pork and poultry. Vintages release, August 16, 2008 Tabalí Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2007 DO Limarí Valley, Chile $12.95 (662999) From one of Chile's northern wine regions, this is shows well-defined flavours and a broad line of soft acidity, both in excellent proportion. Each sip seems to bring forth a new dimension of flavour, while the acidity provides a line of continuity. It's an excellent partner for freshly shucked oysters or for dense-textured white fish. Vintages release, October 2008 Terra d'Aligi 'Tatone' Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005 DOC Montepulciano d'Abuzzo, Italy $15.95 (994616) This is a well-structured 100% Montepulciano, with complex, finely defined fruit flavours that are sleek and high toned. They're complemented by a fairly taut but juicy texture and ripe tannins with a firm but gentle grip. I first tasted this vintage at a dinner in Rome, where it went beautifully with a braised veal shank. New from Ontario wineriesFeature: Featherstone Estate Winery and VineyardThese whites, all classified with the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation on Niagara Peninsula, were released in July and are now available from the winery. To order them, call 905 562 1949 or visit www.featherstonewinery.ca. Featherstone Old Vines Riesling 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.95 This is a stylish Riesling with nicely sculpted and layered fruit. The broad seam of acidic has good depth, too, and it complements the fruit exceptionally well, making for a medium-bodied and quite substantial texture. This is an excellent choice for well-seasoned chicken, turkey or pork. Featherstone 'Black Sheep' Riesling 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 There's a lovely tension between sweet and sour here, a friendly tussle of intense flavours on both sides. Then the acidity steps in to mediate, and the texture settles down to a food-friendly consensus. This is great with spicy seafood or with smoked salmon. Featherstone Gewürztraminer 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.95 Unmistakably Gewürztraminer, this delivers striking and stylish aromas, lovely flavours that are layered and nuanced, and a plush, mouth-filling texture. It's a little fat, as you expect from the variety, and it has the characteristic click of bitterness at the end. Gewürztraminer is going gangbusters in Niagara at the moment, and this is more confirmation of the variety's success in the region. Featherstone Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $13.95 This is a luscious, creamy textured Chardonnay, not a leaner style that you might expect from stainless steel. The fruit is ripe and sweet at the core, plush and attractive, with nice layering. It's well balanced by the texture, which is mouth filling, a touch fat, with a little edginess that brings it closer to food. It's delicious with chicken, turkey or pork. Featherstone Sauvignon Blanc 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $15.95 Look for lengthy flavours that are deep and pungent, and the merest hint of attractive bitterness at the close. With a broad seam of acidity, this is nicely balanced and is a great choice for oysters or white fish with a squeeze of lemon. Other Ontario wineries Peninsula Ridge Gewürztraminer 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 This is Peninsula Ridge's first foray into Gewürztraminer, and it's a very good start. It's not made in the blowsy, in-your-face style, with aromas that bound from the glass. Instead, it's fairly taut and tightly wound, with fine layers of flavour and a fine seam of acidity. Well balanced and definitely a wine for food, it's a great match for Thai cuisine. Try it with a green Thai curry. Order from 905 563 0900 or This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it |
|
| Last Updated ( Wednesday, 30 July 2008 ) |
