No. 76: July 5, 2012 Winepointer introduces you to new wines as they become available in Ontario. (Most are available outside Ontario, too.) These newsletters are generally distributed just in advance of the bi-weekly releases of wines by Vintages, the fine wine arm of the LCBO, Ontario’s provincial liquor retailing system.
Winepointer is written by Rod Phillips, an Ottawa-based wine journalist and author. In addition to Winepointer, I write a weekly wine column for the Ottawa Citizen, the capital’s main daily newspaper, and I am wine writer and contributing editor of NUVO, Canada’s leading lifestyle magazine. I also contribute to Vines and Wine Access (Canada’s leading wine magazines), and The World of Fine Wine (published in the UK and arguably the world’s foremost wine publication). I write the annual best-seller, The 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO. The 2013 edition will be out in September, 2012.
In addition, I am a feature critic for WineAlign, Wine Advisor to the Ottawa Wine & Food Festival, and co-Chair of the Ottawa Wine Challenge (the wine competition associated with that Festival). I have also contributed a section on wine lists (and identified the best in Ottawa) to Anne Desbrisay’s Capital Dining 2011, the definitive guide to restaurants in and around Ottawa.
I also write a column for the web site of the Guild of Sommeliers in the U.S., for Fine Wine Magazine in the U.K., and I’m on the wine panels of CBC Radio Ottawa and the weekly PostMedia WineChat (Thursdays at 2:00pm Eastern: join the discussion at www.ottawacitizen.com/winechat). You can also follow me on Twitter: @rodphillipswine.
My recent articles include:
- “The Spirit of Hennessy” (report of a visit to Hennessy Cognac), in the Winter 2011 issue of NUVO magazine.
- “Spätburgunder: German Pinot Noir,” in the Winter 2011 issue of NUVO magazine.
- “Ancient wines, then and now,” Guild of Sommeliers web site (guildsomm.com)
- ”The murky past of sparkling wines,” Guild of Sommeliers web site (guildsomm.com), translated into Chinese and posted on vinehoo.com (China)
- “Austrian Wines: A Taste of Culture,” in the Spring 2012 issue of NUVO magazine
- “La Ville Rouge: Albi, France,” in the Spring 2012 issue of NUVO magazine
- “Bordeaux: a chronicle of conquest, commerce and kings,” Fine Wine Magazine (magazine.finewinepress.com)
- “Rosé-Coloured Glasses,” in the Summer 2012 issue of NUVO magazine
- “Undiscovered Country” (on the wines of southwest France) in the June-July 2012 issue of Vines magazine
For more information, see my web site at rodphillipsonwine.com (which will soon be re-launched with new features). You can follow my travels, interviews and discoveries on my occasional blog (and sign up for automatic delivery) at www.ottawacitizen.com/worldsofwine. So far this year, I’ve visited Argentina, the Loire Valley, Champagne, Portugal, and also Moscow for the unveiling of Penfolds ‘ampoule’ (see a story in a forthcoming issue of NUVO). In the next few months, I’ll be at the Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in Niagara, and visiting South Africa, California, and other wine regions.
Visit rodphillipsonwine.com to read how I describe and rate wines.
In this issue of Winepointer:
- Selections from Vintages release, 23 June, 2012
- Well worth looking for: wines from earlier Vintages releases
- Pointing ahead: Wines in forthcoming Vintages releases
- New from Ontario wineries
- New from British Columbia wineries
Selections from Vintages release, 7 July, 2012 I was in France when the pre-release tastings were held, but here are notes for some wines I have tasted elsewhere.
White wines
 
Rosehall Run ‘Cuvée County’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario $21.95
Look for good, concentrated flavours here, fairly understated, with decent complexity and structure, and an attractive veneer of oak. The balance is right, with bright, clean acidity underpinning the fruit. Dry and fresh, it makes a versatile white at the table.
 
Rodney Strong ‘Chalk Hill’ Chardonnay 2010
Sonoma County, California $24.95 (275552)
This is a big, delicious chardonnay, packed with concentrated and ripe-sweet fruit that’s harnessed to crisp, bright acidity. For all its weight and power, it has good structure and well-managed oak.
Wynns ‘Coonawarra Estate’ Riesling 2010
Coonawarra, Australia $17.95 (528216)
Look for substance and lift in this very attractive dry riesling. The fruit is multi-faceted and nicely concentrated, and it takes flight on a vibrant, racy current of acid. Consistent and persistent right through the palate, it finds many partners on the table.
Churton Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough, New Zealand $22.95
Most of this was made in stainless steel, but about 10% was barrel-fermented and kept on its lees. The result is a lovely sauvignon with the clean acidity you expect, but with some real textural quality. The fruit is nicely calibrated and less forward (dare I say, less aggressive?) than many New Zealand sauvignons, and the balance very well judged.
Bastianich ‘Adriatico’ Friulano 2010
DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy $18.95 (277467)
Made from 100% friulano, the signature grape of Friuli, this shows solid and quite pungent fruit flavours, underpinned by acidity that’s broad and soft. The texture is fleshy and round, with some fat, yet it’s clean and fresh enough to partner with substantial and slightly spicy foods.
Red wines
Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $26.95 (977629)
This is a beautiful and stylish chianti classico that shows its pedigree from start to finish. Look for a flavour profile that’s complex and layered, and an underlying seam of acidity that makes for a seamless and quite juicy texture. The tannins are ripe and firm. It’s drinking well now, and will easily hold another four or five years.
Well worth looking for These wines were released earlier by Vintages. Some stores still have bottles, and they’re well worth looking for. Check for stores and inventories at lcbo.com.
Cambria ‘Katherine’s Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2008
Santa Maria Valley, California $29.95 (980490)
(Released June 23, 2012) This fine chardonnay combines intensity and elegance. Look for flavours with depth and complexity and a broad seam of fresh acidity. The texture is full and round, yet refreshing. It’s drinking beautifully now, and will easily hold its freshness another three years.
McManis Family Vineyards Syrah 2010
California $18.95 (658104)
(Released May 12, 2012) McManis consistently offers superior quality and well-priced wines, and this syrah is no exception. Look for very attractive fruit, with good complexity and depth, married to fresh acidity that imparts a texture verging on juicy. The tannins are ripe and ready, and this is great drink now through 2016.
Pointing ahead Look for these in forthcoming Vintages releases.
Vintages release, July 21, 2012
Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko Athiri 2010
Santorini, Greece $16.95 (276535)
This is a refreshing white with a difference. Made from assyrtiko (75%) and athiri, it shows a little sweetness and a lovely rich texture, with ripe and pungent flavours. Very well balanced, and consistent right through the palate, it’s a great wine for liver paté and coarse salt.
New from Ontario wineries Calamus Estate Winery, located on the Niagara Peninsula, planted their first vines in 2000 and now have two vineyards totalling 32 acres. You can order these wines at calamuswines.com .
Calamus Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.20
This is a very attractive riesling that’s both dry and yet packed with rich, sweet fruit. The texture is quite plush, and it’s well balanced by a seam of vibrant acidity that pursues the fruit from attack to the very long finish.
Calamus Pinot Gris 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.20
Calamus understands pinot gris, and seems to get the best from their vines. Sourced from their Ball’s Falls vineyard, the 2011 shows quite luscious, ripe-sweet flavours, and good complexity. With vibrant and clean acidity, the impression is only just off-dry. Drink it now and over the next year or two to enjoy its freshness. Sip it on its own or serve it at the table.
Calamus Red 2008
VQA Niagara $16.20
This is a blend of cabernets sauvignon (47%) and franc (47%), with a splash of merlot, and it has been aged 41 months (yes, 41) in French and American oak. It’s a bit less that medium bodied, with solid and consistent flavours from attack to finish, and a good line of fresh acidity. With light and drying tannins, this is a style made for food. Drink it now and over the next two.
Thirty Bench Located on in Niagara’s Beamsville Bench sub-appellation, Thirty Bench has carved out a reputation for making fine wines, especially rieslings. Order from: thirtybench.com.
Thirty Bench ‘Small Lot’ Rosé 2011
VQA Beamsville Bench $22.00
Made from pinot noir (40%), cabernet sauvignon (27%), merlot (20%) and cabernet franc (13%), this is a beautiful, dry rosé that shows exemplary fruit and winemaking through and through. As you’d expect from the blend, there’s impressive complexity, and the flavours roll in, one after the other. It expresses fruit and acid seamlessly, synthesizing consistent flavour and vibrant freshness. The tannins are clean, light and drying, and this makes a fabulous addition to any table. Only 331 cases were made.
Thirty Bench ‘Small Lot: Wood Post Vineyard’ Riesling 2011
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.75
This lovely, slightly off-dry riesling (which I think of as off-dry-dry, as distinct from off-off-dry) delivers concentrated but subtly layered flavours married to vibrant racy acidity. It shows all the signs of youth, and is best drunk that way – you’ll have no trouble getting though a case of this during the summer. The texture suggests an aperitif; it perks up your palate perfectly.
New from British Columbia wineries Tinhorn Creek Tinhorn Creek’s wines deliver consistent quality. For information and to order: tinhorn.com.
Tinhorn Creek Chardonnay 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley
This very attractive chardonnay is easy-drinking but delivers quality right through. Look for fresh, understated flavours that are nicely layered and structured, balanced by refreshing acidity. It’s ready to drink now and -- to enjoy the freshness of the fruit – over the next year or two.
Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc 2010
VQA Okanagan Valley Release date: August 1, 2012
This is simply a lovely cab franc. The flavours are well defined and focused, fairly understated but nicely concentrated and with good complexity. The acidity is fresh, and the fruit-acid balance is exceptional. With supple, easy-going tannins, this is drinking well now and will hold for another three or four years.
Tinhorn Creek Pinot Noir 2008
VQA South Okanagan Valley
This is a delicious pinot that’s showing no age, four nearly four years, but excellent integration and style. The fruit is consistent and solid right through the palate, and paired with a broad seam of bright acidity. The tannins are sleek and supple. It’s drinking beautifully now, and should hold its character another three years.
Tinhorn Creek ‘Oldfield Series’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA South Okanagan Valley
No wimpy pinot, this shows a plush, dense texture and rich flavours, but is – unlike some in this style – it’s identifiably pinot. There’s plenty of complexity here, with the layered, ripe fruit holding its weight right through the palate, and the acid come through effectively, encouraging you to have another sip. With firm, ripe tannins, this is ready for drinking now, but better to wait a year, then drink 2013-2016 to appreciate its freshness. Cheers! Rod.
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