Aussie wineries fight back | Print |
Thursday, 19 May 2011

More grape varieties and new regions aim to revive country's wine reputation

 You'll notice a lot of new Australian wines in the LCBO and Vintages these days, reflecting a push to improve the selection from that country.

Australia has made a major contribution to the LCBO range for years, but its sales took a hit in the last couple of years, after surging from the late 1990s. Argentina and Chile came on strong, and the selection of Australian wines was looking tired. The newcomers include more regions and grape varieties.

As Peter Bentley, of Pikes Wines (that's their Riesling in today's foursome) says, "in the LCBO, we want a fair representation of what we drink at home."

Australia is reaching out in a number of ways. At the higher end of the market, they're stressing the lineage of Australia's winemaking. Wine production began early in the 1800s, making it nearly two centuries old; there are winemaking families that go back several generations, not to mention vines more than 100 years old.

A recent event in Ottawa featured Australia's First Families of Wine, a group of 12 family-owned wineries, each of which produces at least one of the country's iconic wines. I'm sure they wouldn't think of it this way, but they're a sort of wine aristocracy. (There's a similar grouping in Italy, where several of the members really are aristocrats.)

For the mass market, Australia is trying to interest us in wine that's different from much of what we got used to and started to drift away from. The high-production shirazes will still be there, but if you look in the $12-20 range, you'll find more and more like the four reviewed today.

Only one of today's four is from southeastern Australia, the superzone that covers the great bulk of Australia's wine production. The others, like many more recent arrivals in the LCBO, are from smaller appellations that are well known or are developing their own reputations.

Then, Australia is showing a broader range of grape varieties. Shiraz is likely to remain dominant, but look at today's foursome. There's a very good riesling, a cabernet, and a three-way blend, but I'm especially happy to see a petit verdot in the LCBO.

Petit verdot is one of the Bordeaux varieties, and usually appears in small percentages in Bordeaux blends, when it appears at all. A few wineries in Australia and California make it as a varietal, but I think this is the first to be widely available in Ontario.

It's worth looking at the Australia shelves in the LCBO. When you find a region or a grape variety you don't know, try it out.


DE BORTOLI 'VAT 4' PETIT VERDOT 2008
From a very respected producer, this red made from an underappreciated variety delivers intense and layered flavours, very good structure and firm tannins. Drink it with wellseasoned grilled red meats. 14-per-cent alcohol; $14.95 (222265)

STONE DWELLERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008
Another new entry to the LCBO, this cabernet from Strathbogie Ranges in Victoria shows intense flavours that are solid from start to finish. It's nicely balanced and is a great choice for roasted or grilled red meats. 15-per-cent alcohol; $19.95 (212761)

FIFTH LEG SHIRAZ-MERLOTCABERNET-SAUVIGNON 2005
From Western Australia, this blend shows a lot of complexity in the flavours and a fresh texture. It's dry and medium weight, with drying tannins, and goes well with roast beef and red meats generally. 14-per-cent alcohol; $15.95 (212605)

CLARE HILLS RIESLING 2009
Clare Valley is one of Australia's prime riesling regions. This example is dry, refreshing and zesty, with solid fruit flavours and excellent fruit-acid balance. It's great with seafood, poultry and spicy dishes. 12-per-cent alcohol; $14.95 (215111)
Last Updated ( Saturday, 11 June 2011 )
 
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