LCBO skullduggery | Print |
Thursday, 27 May 2010

Dan Aykroyd's death-tinged vodka brings debate to a head

The human skull. Associated with death, in various forms it's been a symbol of piracy, an insignia of the Nazi SS, and widely used as a sign for poison. Nothing much positive here, so perhaps it's not surprising that when a vodka turned up in a skull-shaped bottle, the LCBO turned it down. They thought the death symbolism was problematic and thought it would appeal to young people at a time when there is concern about binge drinking. They were also worried that the association of death with alcohol might remind some people of alcohol-related traffic fatalities.

The vodka in question is the hugely successful Crystal Head Vodka, a brand owned by Canadian actor Dan Aykroyd, and the LCBO's decision caused a bit of a furore. It raised broader questions of how the LCBO decides which products to carry. Are they based on quality, price and their fit in the LCBO's overall inventory? Or on other criteria, such as a judgments about good taste and morals?

Chris Layton, the LCBO's media relations co-ordinator, says the LCBO has to be conscious of presentation.

"Beverage alcohol packaging is sometimes provocative, and sometimes we have to take a second look. We try to strike a balance, recognizing that our suppliers are dealing with a competitive environment and that advertising in general has become more provocative."

As examples of problematic packaging, he cited labels considered sexually exploitative or demeaning. Some beer labels (not carried by the LCBO) show semi-nude female figures, while a grappa offered to the LCBO a while ago had blown-glass figures in various sexual positions inside the bottle. "It was obviously intended to be provocative," Layton noted.

Other concerns were labels that appealed to young people under the legal drinking age, and packaging that related to violence. One beer (also declined by the LCBO) had a label that included the word "killer" and an image of an attack dog.

As a further example of a product declined by the LCBO, he cites another vodka -- Russian this time -- called Kalashnikov. The bottle is in the shape of an AK-47 ("it holds several rounds of the original Russian vodka," according to its website), and the LCBO didn't think packaging with a connotation of violence or potential violence, "was a fit" with its brand.

Layton notes that the LCBO has been successful in promoting a more positive image of beverage alcohol. "A few years back, beverage alcohol had a very negative image, but we've promoted responsible drinking."

It's a fine line and, he says, the LCBO is always "under a microscope." Although they say they try to strike a balance, it's likely that they tend toward caution more than risk; it's got to be easier not to stock a controversial product than to do so. After all, there's no shortage of wines, beers and spirits to choose from, as producers are jostling to get listed in the LCBO.

But it's not as if edgy or provocative packaging is a new thing. Beverage alcohol, whether wine, beer or spirits, is a commodity, and producers are always trying to get an advantage in the crowded market. Back in the 1890s, when France was divided over the Dreyfus Affair -- the case of a Jewish army officer charged with treason, which brought anti-Semitism to the surface--one Champagne producer sold a special bottling with the label "Champagne Anti-Juive."

A couple of years ago, Italian police raided a winery near the Austrian border and seized bottles of wine with labels showing Hitler and members of the Nazi leadership. The winery had been selling about 20,000 bottles of their "Der Fuehrer" brand each year.

But despite political concerns like this and the sort of cultural issues raised by Aykroyd's vodka, sex is the main problem. The famous Château Mouton-Rothschild, which commissions an original piece of art for its label each year, ran into problems with its 1993 vintage. Balthus, the French artist, provided a sketch of a young female nude, and it was banned for sale in the U.S. Bottles sold there had a blank square where the art would have been. The LCBO took the bottle with the nude image, but made it available on request, rather than displaying it on the shelf.

Peter Lehmann, the Australian producer, ran into a similar problem with his Barossa Semillon. The labels on Lehmann wines are based on playing cards, and the semillon showed the Queen of Clubs with bare breasts. It was banned in North America (U.S. regulators deemed it "obscene and indecent"), although the original went on sale in other markets. (It makes you think that President's Choice missed a marketing opportunity for a California wine vinegar: "Mammaries of Napa.")

But context is all-important. A California wine called Cleavage Creek, whose labels are photographs of women with covered breasts but showing cleavage, might be thought provocative or in poor taste. But the winery's owner, whose wife died of breast cancer, produces the wine to raise money for breast cancer research. Each of the women on the labels is a breast cancer survivor.

In the end, decisions about packaging are bound to be controversial. The LCBO's Layton says that "as a government agency, we are closely watched," and maybe that perception makes the LCBO take positions that are more conservative than many people would like. But Layton points out that "the people of Ontario are our shareholders" and they let the LCBO know when they take issue with the board's policies. Like the regulation of taste in any context, it's bound to be controversial, as the debate on Crystal Head vodka shows.


Lamberti 'Santepietre' Pinot Grigio 2008
This Italian pinot grigio is superior to many others in the LCBO. Look for well-defined flavours, some complexity, and good balance making for a refreshing texture. It goes well with white fish, seafood and poultry. 12.5-per-cent alcohol; $12.95 (560524)

Tempus Two 'Wilde' Chardonnay 2007
Look for the copper label on this delicious chardonnay from two premium Australian regions. Inside the bottle you`ll find a white that's full of flavour and has a crisp, clean texture. Drink it with poultry or mild cheeses. 12.7-per-cent alcohol; $13.95 (91710)

Mouton Cadet Réserve Médoc 2007
This is a lovely and well-priced dry red from the Médoc region of Bordeaux. Look for solid and complex flavours from start to finish, along with soft tannins and a clean, refreshing texture. It's a natural for roast or grilled beef. 12.5-per-cent alcohol; $16.95 (52274)

Wolf Blass 'Red Label' Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
This is a richly flavoured and textured Australian red blend that goes well with barbecued red meats, like burgers, steak, chops, and ribs. The flavours are big and dense, and the wine shows good structure and complexity. 13.5-per-cent alcohol; $14.95 (311795)
 
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