No. 23: January 9, 2009

• Wines from Vintages release, January 10, 2009
• Pointing ahead

• Baron Philippe de Rothschild Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($14.95, Vintages release, red wines)
• Montes ‘Limited Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère 2007 ($14.95, Vintages release, red wines)
• Château Larroque 2005 ($17.95, Vintages release, red wines)
• de Bortoli ‘Gulf Station’ Pinot Noir 2007 ($19.95, Vintages release, red wines)
• Grant Burge ‘Barossa Vines’ Shiraz 2006 ($17.95, Vintages release, red wines)
• Zonte’s Footstep Shiraz-Viognier 2006 ($14.95, Vintages release, red wines)
• Mazzei Poggio Alla Badiola 2006($15.95, Vintages release, red wines)

For an explanation of the five-star rating system, click here.

Vintages Release, January 10, 2009

This release includes more lower-priced wines than usual. This is smart and realistic marketing for this time of the year (and decade) and it’s a good opportunity for you to stock up on some great values. Many of these wines were on the shelves before the release date.

White wines

Konzelmann Reserve Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $15.20 (200527)
This is a lovely riesling that’s medium bodied, off-dry, and delivers really attractive fruit that ride in on a broad seam of tangy, refreshing acidity. It’s excellent for sipping alone or for pairing with spicy, not-too-hot, Thai and Indian cuisine.


Lockwood Vineyard Chardonnay 2006
Monterey County, California $18.95 (673731)
This is a solid, well-made chardonnay with solid fruit flavours, good complexity and balance. Its refreshing texture suits it to roasted or grilled chicken and pork, but it’s not an exceptional wine.


Distant Land Gewürztraminer 207
Gisborne, New Zealand $19.95 (75549)
This has all the character of classic gewürztraminer: pungent and rich flavours, a slightly oily texture, and good balance with just a little fatness. It’s very attractive, indeed, and I suggest you try it when you next have a moderately spicy Thai dish.


Domaine Patrick Miolane ‘La Canière’ Chassagne-Montrachet 2006
AOC Chassagne-Montrachet, France $46.95 (91199)
This is a really lovely chardonnay (yes, it’s Chassagne-Montrachet, but it’s still chardonnay) that delivers great structure and elegance. Everything’s in place here, from the complexity of the fruit to the fine balance. It’s an excellent choice for fairly rich dishes such as lobster and scallops.

Red wines

Liberty School Syrah 2005
California $17.95 (942383)
It's labelled "California" but the fruit in this is from Paso Robles. As I recall a discussion with winemaker Austin Hope at the winery last year, he prefers to keep the broader geographical designation so that (a) he has the flexibility to source the best fruit from anywhere in the state without (b) changing the designation annually and, potentially, confusing his clients. That said, this is a well-made and well-priced Syrah with a core of sweet fruit, layered flavours, dry tannins, and a refreshing texture. It's a great partner for barbecued red meats. (This review appeared in an earlier Winepointer newsletter.)


Santa Julia Reserva Malbec 2006
Mendoza, Argentina $13.95 (665026)
This is a well-priced malbec that delivers what you expect: good fruit-forward flavours, some complexity, and decent balance. It’s an excellent choice for mid-week burgers and pizza.


Baron Philippe de Rothschild Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Maipo Valley, Chile $14.95 (32151)
This is fairly young, and although it’s drinking fine now, you could cellar it for a couple of years to good effect. It has plenty of fruit, nice balance, and gripping, sweet tannins, and it’s excellent with grilled red meats.


Montes ‘Limited Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère 2007
DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $14.95 (16071)
This is very good value, a quite compelling combination where the cab gives structure to the plush flavours of the carm. They work well together to provide solid flavours, good structure, and a tangy texture. Drink it with grilled or roasted red meats.


Terranoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Colchagua Valley, Chile $18.95 (46268)
Full-bodied, densely flavoured and with an attractively edgy texture, this wine stands out for its balance. The layered, concentrated flavours harmonize with a broad seam of acidity that lends it a refreshing quality that’s not common in bold wines. Enjoy this with well-seasoned grilled or roasted red meats.


Viña Tarapacá Gran Reserva Carmenère 2007
Maipo Valley, Chile $15.00 (57513)
This has all the qualities of the variety: intense and reasonably complex flavours, fruit-forwardness, decent structure, and a smooth, mouth-filling texture. It’s dry, medium bodied and lightly tannic, and goes well with grilled red meats.


Château Larroque 2005
AOC Bordeaux, France $17.95 (92536)
Here’s more evidence that there’s great quality to be had from Bordeaux at very reasonable prices. This has many estimable qualities: lovely complex flavours, fine balance, ripe and integrating tannins, and a refreshing texture. It’s excellent with roast beef or grilled steak, and you can enjoy it now or cellar it another three or four years.


Fontanafredda ‘Serralunga d’Alba’ Barolo 2004
DOCG Barolo, Italy $38.95 (943290)
There’s lovely fruit in this very attractive Barolo, which you can drink now or put away for another four or fine years. It’s complemented by a well-pitched, broad seam of acidity that makes you think of pasta with a rich meat and tomato sauce.


Konzelmann ‘Winemaster’s Collection’ Shiraz 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $13.20 (85118)
Remember that Niagara is a cool-climate region, and that 2006 was generally tough on reds there. This is a lighter shiraz with some subtlety in its flavours, and it achieves good balance and a food-friendly texture. Drink it with herbed roasted chicken or roast turkey.


Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Mourvèdre 2006
Contra Costa County, California $21.95 (66084)
There’s something a bit decadent about this wine, with its rich, ripe fruit flavours and its dense, mouth-filling and smooth texture. For all that, it has good structure and the acidity to make it an excellent choice for rich red meat and game dishes.


Zig Zag Zin Zinfandel 2005
Mendocino County, California $18.95 (39982)
With the acronym ZZZZ, this must surely qualify as one of those wines that Robert Parker insists on calling “a sleeper.” It delivers the intense flavours you expect of zinfandel, along with good structure and balance. It’s satisfying and a good partner for richly packed burgers.


Casa Lapostolle Merlot 2007
Rapel Valley, Chile $16.95 (405712)
Packed with dense, ripe fruit flavours and having a tangy texture, this is a great choice for grilled red meats. The balance is good and the tannins are gripping but quite manageable.


Chilensis Reserva Carmenère 2006
Maule Valley, Chile $11.95 (657981)
This is a popular take on Chile’s signature grape. It has all the components for a wine to drink with burgers, rich pizza, and spicy grilled red meats. Look for concentrated fruit flavours, good balance and a tangy texture.


Viña Calina ‘Alcance’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Maule Valley, Chile $19.95 (79533)
This is a well-made cabernet that delivers concentrated and well-structured fruit, complex structure, nice balance, and a rich and slightly tangy texture from the acidity. It’s a natural for grilled or roasted red meats.


de Bortoli ‘Gulf Station’ Pinot Noir 2007
Yarra Valley, Australia $19.95 (15511)
This is a really attractive example of new world pinot, with quite concentrated fruit flavours and a nice seam of acidity that contributes to the refreshing texture. It’s dry and medium bodied and goes well with grilled lamb or duck.


Grant Burge ‘Barossa Vines’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, Australia $17.95 (738567)
Grant Burge has a well-deserved reputation for quality wines, and this one’s no exception. The fruit is concentrated and well-defined, with very good structure, which the acidity balances perfectly. It’s rich and full in texture, with a refreshing note, and it’s an excellent choice for grilled lamb chops.


Marquee Classic Artisan Wines GSM 2006
South Eastern Australia $18.95 (75010)
There’s an attractive edginess to the texture here, something between rusticity and tanginess. It complements the concentrated fruit flavours well, and makes this a very good partner for well-seasoned or spicy red meats.


Sandalford ‘Protégé’ Shiraz 2005
Margaret River, Australia $17.95 (80671)
From a well-respected producer, this shiraz offers nicely concentrated, layered fruit flavours, good structure, and a nice seam of balancing acidity. It’s a natural for roast or grilled lamb and other red meats.


Watershed Shiraz 2004
Margaret River, Australia $19.95 (73767)
This is a quite delicious shiraz, another winner from the Margaret River region. Look for complex fruit flavours that are well-defined and concentrated, well balanced acidity, and an attractive tanginess to the texture. It’s ideal with a rack of lamb, grilled medium-rare.


Zonte’s Footstep Shiraz-Viognier 2006
Langhorne Creek, Australia $14.95 (72975)
Following the Northern Rhône recipe, this blend is quite lovely. Look for layers of sweet, ripe fruit, good structure, very good balance contributed by a well-pitched seam of acidity, and good length. It’s very good quality and excellent value. Buy lots and what you don’t drink with hearty winter meals you can enjoy with next summer’s barbecues.


De Heuvel Shiraz 2005
WO Tulbagh, South Africa $16.95 (89680)
From a little-known region in South Africa, this shiraz delivers solid flavours and a refreshing texture that rests on a broad seam of acidity. It’s definitely pitch toward food, and it partners well with all kinds of red meats.


Dornier ‘Donatus’ Red 2004
WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $24.95 (606020)
A blend of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot, this is a spectacular, well-structured red that’s dense and rich in flavours and texture. Everything is tight-grained here, from the layered nuances in the flavour profile, through the taut texture, to the fine, ripe tannins. It’s a wine that’s authoritative, and it calls for dense, well-flavoured food, like grilled sirloin steak or red game meat. It’s just ready for drinking now, but you could well hold it a couple of years to give it a chance to open up. (This review appeared in an earlier Winepointer newsletter.)


Château Bellevue 2005
AOC Fronsac $24.95 (45708)
This is a lovely dry, medium-bodied blend that offers fairly dense and complex flavours, with an edgy, tangy texture. The tannins are ripe and drying, and it’s drinking very well now, although you can hold it another four or five years. Open it when you’re roasting beef.


Château l’Escart Cuvée Prestige 2001
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur, France $22.95 (91363)
Already cellared a few years for you, this is drinking very nicely and will complement a wide range of red meat dishes. Look for well-layered fruit flavours, a refreshing texture, and good length. It’s medium bodied and dry, and the tannins are nicely integrated.


Cave de Saumur ‘Réserve des Vignerons’ Saumur 2005
AOC Saumur, France $15.95 (103879)
This is a really lovely wine, with fairly dense flavours, terrific balance and fine tannic structure. It’s on the bold side for a Saumur, but a lovely expression, nonetheless. Drink it with a roasted veal chop.


Château Roubia 2006
AOC Minervois, France $14.95 (705632)
From Minervois, in southwest France, this delivers solid flavours from front to back, a nice seam of acidity, refreshing and soft texture, and excellent balance. It’s a natural for well-seasoned read meats.


Mazzei Poggio Alla Badiola 2006
IGT Toscana, Italy $15.95 (662197)
This blend of sangiovese (70%) and merlot (30%) offers nicely defined and fairly intense flavours, a smooth texture, and excellent balance. It’s just well made across the board, and is great value. Drink it with meat-rich, tomato-based pasta, like hearty lasagna.


Le Arche Amarone della Valpolicella 2005
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella, Italy $44.95 (95836)
This is a really lovely Amarone, big and bold, with well-structured and –defined flavours, and rich and mouth-filling texture, and excellent balance. It’s a very good expression of the style, and calls for food with heft. Drink it with well-seasoned steak or game.

Pointing ahead

Look for these wines in forthcoming Vintages releases

Vintages release, February 28, 2009

Tudernum Merlot 2006
IGT Umbria, Italy $15.95 (101253)
This 100% merlot from the Umbria region delivers ripe flavours that are concentrated and well-defined, very good structure, and a nice seam of acidity that contributes to the refreshing texture. Dry, medium-bodied and well-balanced, it’s a natural for a braised lamb shank.

Cheers!

Rod.